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NARRATIVE 



OF A 



Journey to Musardu 



CAPITAL OF THE WESTERN MANDINGOES. 



4^' 



BEISTJAMIN" ANDER.SOK 






S. W. GREEN, PRINTER, i6 and i8 JACOB STREET. 
1870. 



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INTRODUOTIOlSr. 



Smithsonian Institution, January, 1870. 
It had long been considered important by the friends of Liberia 
that an exploration should be made of the country east of the 
Republic. The only difficulty in the way was to find the proper 
man for the enterprise. President Warner had for a number of 
years been seeking for such a one, when the author of the accom- 
panying- narrative volunteered to undertake the exploration. He 
is a young man, educated in Liberia, of pure negro blood, and had 
p ' vioiifeJiV s ^rvec is Secretary of the Treasury under President 
^P'a! '• M". T'le nar. itive is printed without correction from the 
original manuscript, and the principal portion of the edition has 
been presented to the Smithsonian Institution. by Mr. H. Maunsell 
Schiettelin, for distribution. 

JOSEPH HENRY, 
Secretary Smithsonian Institution. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Leaves Monrovia, 9 

Exploration Obstructed, 11, 17, 47 

A^'annswah, 12,23 

Leopards Numerous, 12 

Bessa's and its Walls, 15, 23 

Iron Ore, 14, 105,111 

Used for Shot, 39 

Polished Walk, 83 

Smelting, 84 

Working, 110 

Boozie Savage Warriors, 17 

Slave Trade, 21,39,109 

" Insurrection, 41 

Boporu, 22,26 

Totoquella, 28 

Stereoscope, 33, 45 

Salt for Settling Fued?,, 30 

Bessa Compelled to Restore, 36 

St. Paiir s River Falls, 39 

Momora Avants a School, 45 

Good for a Mission Station, .45 

Arabic Grammar, 40 

" Reading and Writing, 107 

Fish Plenty, 44, 117 

Cotton Weaving and Dyeing, 44, 56, 
61, 79. 

Agriculture, 85, 105 

Rice, Cotton, Tobacco, etc., 56, 61, 65, 
105. 

Cane and Plantains, 86 

Zelleki, 50 

Dallazeah, 51 

Zolu's, 53 

Zow Zow, 54 



PAGE 

Markets, 44,' 54, 67, 79, 109 

Religion, 4o 

Religious Toleration, 107, 110 

Convent for Women 68 

Handsome Green Stone, 58 

Fissabue, 63 

Bokkasah, 64 

I King Dowilnyah, 71 

i His Cruelty, 72 

j War Dance, 75 

I Fear of Instruments,. 76 

j Ziggah Porrah Zue, . .77 

I Bridge over St. Paul's, 80 

Elephants plenty, 83 

for Dinner 117 

Music, 18,31, 78,81,90 

Sheep, Cattle, Horses, 83, 100, 104, 109 

Ballatah, 83 

Vukkah, 85 

Mahommadu, 87 

Musardu, 88 

" Healthy and Dry 91 

Cavalry, (1500;) Military 

Exhibition, 93 

Harmattan Dust, 108 

Musardu Oppressed, 95 

Expecting War, 99 

Gold, 95, 100, 101 

Poison for Arrows, , 103 

Hawks and Strange Bird, . . .106 

Expected Attack, 113 

Population, 39, 66, 84, 91, 107, 113 

Mandingo Dress, 91 

Trading Forts Recommended, 100 



A JOUEl^ET TO MUSAEDU. 



This account of a journey to Musardu, the capital 
of tlie Western Mandingoes, is the result of a propo- 
sal made by Mr. Henry M. Schieffelin, of ISTew-York, 
through President I). B. Warner, of Liberia, who for 
six or eight years had been endeavoring, till now with- 
out success, to induce the inauguration of an expedition 
from Liberia, to explore the interior as far as possible. 
Mr. Schieffelin and Caleb Swan, Esq., of ISTew-York, 
furnished the means necessary to carry on the explo- 
ration. 

ISTo especial point was indicated by the promoters of 
this exploration ; only the general direction was given, 
east and north-east. The especial point, however, 
agreed upon by my friends in Monrovia, was Musardu, 
the capital of the Western Mandingoes. This is the 
portion of the country of Manding which our citizens 
Seymore and Ash attempted to visit ; but their travels 
were unfortunately interrupted in a manner that nearly 
cost them their lives. 

The Mandingoes have always excited the liveliest 
interest on account of their superior physical appear- 
ance, their natural intelligence, their activity, and their 



6 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

enterprise. No one has passed unnoticed these tall 
black men from the eastern interior, in whose counte- 
nances spirit and intellect are strongly featured. 

Their diligent journeys from Tallakondah have al- 
lowed no sea-coast town north-west of the St. Paul's to 
remain unvisited. Their avidity for trade has drawn 
them from their treeless plains to the Atlantic ocean. 
Their zeal for Islam has caused the name of Moham- 
med to be pronounced in this part of Africa, where it 
otherwise would never have been mentioned. 

Musardu can, by easy journeys, be reached from 
Monrovia in twenty-five or thirty days. I was obliged, 
however, from the delays and inconveniences incident 
to interior traveling in Africa, to occupy thirteen 
months. 

Sometimes I was compelled to spend considerable 
lengths of time in one place. I have not on.- that ac- 
count burdened this report with insipid recitals of 
what, every day, nearly repeated itself "Whatever 
struck me as descriptive of the country, or illustrative 
of the manners of the people, that I have recorded. 

I am sensible that the regions through which I have 
traveled are capable of yielding vaster stores of infor- 
mation, in a scientific point of view, than what I have 
afforded ; but I shall be satisfied if this humble begin- 
ning succeeds in encouraging others in the same di- 
rection, and on a more extensive scale. I shall now 
proceed to narrate the journey from Monrovia to 
Musardu ; but especially from Boporu to Musardu. 

I shall rapidly march through the two grand divi- 
sions of the Boozie country. I shall first make the 
reader acquainted with the Domar Boozie ; introduce 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 7 

him at once to tbe populous and thriving towns of 
Zoiu, Zow-Zow, Salaghee, Fissabbue, and Bokkasaw. 
Leaving tbe Domar country, we sball enter tbe Wymar 
country, give time to rest at Ziggah Porrab Zue, in 
latitude 8° 14:' 45", its capital, tbe vast and noisy mar- 
ket of wliicb takes place every Sunday, upon tbe 
banks of tbe same river on wbicb Clay Asbland, Loui- 
siana, Yirginia, and Caldwell are seated — tbe St. Paul's. 
We sball tben cross tbat river upon a suspension 
bridge of wicker-work, elevated twenty-five feet from 
its surface, and come into tbe territory of one of tbe 
most warlike kings in tbe Wymar country, tbe bloody 
Donilnyab. We sball not tarry long in bis presence ; 
but, hastening away, nothing sball stop our progress — 
not even the Yukkah mountains, a boundary acknow- 
ledged to divide tbe fertile bills of Wymar from the 
almost treeless plains of Handing. Crossing these with 
the tramp and speed of a soldier, we shall quickly de- 
scend into tbe country of the Western Mandingoes ; 
visit their principal cities ; and, finally, take up our 
abode in their very capital — Musardu. 

Tbe instruments with which observations were made 
were : One sextant, by E. k Gr. W. Blunt, jSTew-York ; 
one aneroid barometer ; two thermometers— 1st, 133° ; 
2d, 140°, by B. Pike, New- York; two small night and 
day compasses, by H. W. Hunter, ISTew-York ; one 
tolerably good watch ; one artificial horizon. 

As for the accuracy of these calculations of latitude 
and longitude, whatever painstaking and the instru- 
ments enumerated above could do, has not been ne- 
glected. 

I have not been able to calculate the profile of the 



§ A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

route according to tlie usual methods, because it was 
impossible to procure the proper instruments, witb 
which a contemporaneous register ought to have been 
kept at Monrovia, during my absence. 

Even the barometer with which I was furnished 
was an aneroid, an instrument that has to be refer- 
red from time to time to the mercurial barometer for 
adjustment. 

I can not say that the indications of the instrument 
were material departures from the truth. It certainly 
indicated the rise and fall of land in a satisfactory and 
unmistakable manner, both in going to and returning 
from Musardu. 

At Totoquella, in latitude 7° 45' 24'', and Boporu, 
June 9th and 13th, it ranged 29.36, 29.34. Upon my 
return in March it ranged from 29.14 to 29.24. This 
difference may be ascribed, partly to difference of sea- 
sons of rains and dries, and partly to want of accuracy 
in the instrument itself. 

I was not even able to ascertain directly the seve- 
ral heights of land by means of the boiling point of 
water, because my thermometers ranged only from 
133° to 140° Fahrenheit. The highest rise of land was 
indicated by the aneroid at 27.61 inches; the boil- 
ing point of which would have been 208° Fahrenheit. 
See Davies & Peck's Mathematical Dictionary, page 
838, " Table of barometric heights corresponding to 
difference of temperature of boiling water." It is 
from these tables that I have made approximate esti- 
mates of the elevations of land. 

Taking the indications of the aneroid at the seve- 
ral places, and ascertaining from the tables the boiling 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 9 

points at each place, (which always rated higher than 
my two thermometers of 133° and 140° Fahrenheit,) 
I then made the calculation as if I had ascertained the 
boiling point directly from the thermometer. For ex- 
ample, the barometer and thermometer at Ziggah 
Porrah Zue stood 28.08 and 86°. 

The boiling point of 28.06 (see Tables) is 208° Fah. 

From Table I for 208° height, . . 2049 feet. 

Proportional part for 0° 8', deduct . 408 



1641 
Multiplier from Table II. for 86°, . . 1112 



Approximate height required, . . 1824 feet. 

The number of longitudes would have been greater, 
had it not been for the difficulty of reading off the 
limb of the sextant at night. 

On the 14th of February, 1868, I embarked the 
effects of the expedition in a large canoe, loaned me 
by Dr. C. B. Dunbar for the purpose. We reached 
Yirginia, on the St. Paul's, at six o'clock p.m. The 
next morning we started for Yannswah, a Dey village, 
four and a half miles in the rear of Yirginia. This 
village was once occupied wholly by the Deys, but 
their power is fast waning, and more than half the 
village is now in the hands of Mandingo traders from 
Boporu. 

Here it was that I had made a previous arrangement 
for the conduct of the expedition, with a learned Man- 
dingo, Kaifal-Kanda, who had lately arrived from his 
native town Billelah, a place near to, and scarcely 
second in importance to Musardu itself 
1* 



/ 



10 A JOURNEY TO MUSAKDU. 

I was detained here tliree weeks waiting for him to 
arrange our departure. In the mean time all my car- 
riers, who were Kroomen, deserted me, with the 
exception of their head-man, Ben; being frightened 
by what the Dey people told them of the dangers of 
the road. Kaifal at first proposed to send me direct 
to Boporu ; but my friends at Monrovia were so ap- 
prehensive that I should not be able to pass through 
that country, that I refused to go to Boporu. Subse- 
quent events proved that their apprehensions were not 
entirely unfounded. 

Boporu, though the most direct route, or the route 
most usually traveled, is also the place where the 
strongest opposition is offered to any one wishing to 
pass through. It is the place where the policy of non- 
intercourse originated. Its power and policy domi- 
nate over the surrounding regions. 

It was upon my refusal to go to Boporu that Kaifal 
sent me to Bessa's town, which is situated forty miles 
west of Boporu. And though it is somewhat inde- 
pendent of the authority of Momora Son, the king of 
Boporu, the same practice prevails with respect to pro- 
hibiting all penetration into the interior. 

Before setting out on this expedition, I made every 
effort to join another civilized person with me ; but the 
undertaking was considered of too dangerous a cha- 
racter. I tried to prevail on some of the young men, 
who had but little else to do at the time ; but was so 
entirely unsuccessful, that I fear their reputation for 
enterprise and hardihood must suffer when I relate 
how they preferred the safs, soft, grassj^ streets of 
Monrovia to an expedition into the heart of their 



A JOUEXEY TO MUSAEDU. 11 

country, simply because it was said to be perilous. 
I thereafter received other discouragements, from such 
a quarter and of sucli a character that I must forbear 
to mention them, 

Many stories were rife of the unsettled state of the 
country : that the roads between us and the interior 
tribes were infested by banditti, and that war was 
raging between interior tribes themselYCs; that be- 
tween all these jarring forces, it was impossible for the 
expedition to survive forty miles. And th.is was the 
opinion of those who were in a condition to be the 
best informed. But as the expedition was pushed .on 
in the very localities where these difficulties were said 
to exist, it was found that there were disturbances, but 
not of a character to entirely prohibit our progress. 

The practice of exaggerating every petty affair intc 
the proportions of a universal war. is used for a pur- 
pose ; being often an artifice to produce general con- 
sternation, out of which the more knowing may cull 
every advantage f^r themselves. 

Besides, it is the policy of our intervening tribes to 
get up scare-crow reports, to prevent intercourse be- 
tween the interior and Liberia. Nothing is more 
dreaded, and especially by the Boporu Mandingoes, 
than the penetration of the interior by the Liberians. 
There is. therefore, a complete line of obstruction, ex- 
tending east and west, in the rear of Montserrado 
country, which hinders or inconveniences trade. It 
deserves the immediate action of government, in order 
that the interior trade may be completely unfettered 
from such annoyances. 

It is along this line that the Boporu Mandingoes 



12 A JOUKNEY TO MUSAEDU. 

and others are determined to be the " go-betweens" to 
the inland trade and Liberian enterprise. They it is 
who are chiefly engaged in making beef scarce, and 
country cloths small ; who trammel and clog the Boozie 
and Barline trade. 

On the 6th of March, having hired eighteen Con- 
goes, to supply the place of the Kroomen who had 
deserted me, we started from Yannswah for Bessa's 
town, under the conduct of two of Kaifal's young 
men. Bessa's town was the place pitched upon as our 
starting-point for Musardu, since I had refused to go 
to Boporu. 

Passing, as rapidly as our burdens would permit, the 
towns of Yyrmore, Sne, Moah, Weta, and Bambu, we 
reached Mann^enah on Thursday, the 12th of March. 
"We had been traveling in a north-eastern direction ; 
halting here, we saw a large mountain, north-east by 
east, behind which Boporu is said to lie. We had 
now to change our course to westward, in order to go 
to Bessa's town. All the towns and villages through 
which we had passed, except Weta, Bambu, and Man- 
neenah, belonged to the Beys. This tribe was once 
numerous and powerful, but is now scatteringly 
sprinkled in small and unimportant villages over the 
face of the country. They have a relic of their old 
antipathy against Liberians. Slave-trade, war, and 
their absorption into other tribes have nearly oblite- 
rated every thing that distinguished them as a tribe. 
Old Gatumba's town, both in appearance and hospi- 
tality, is the only redeeming feature in this part of the 
country. 

In this region leopards are numerous, and sometimes 



A JOURXEY TO MUSARDU. 13 

dangerous. The female leopard is particularly danger- 
ous Tvhen she has the care of her young. It is said 
that leopards never attack first, and will always shun 
you whenever they can do so. This rule, like many 
others, has some exceptions, and sometimes some very 
fatal ones. A female leopard having her cub with her 
met a man in a sudden turn of the road ; she flew at 
him, and came nigh breaking the rule entirely as to 
him, but for the strength of his lungs and the speed of 
his legs, all of which had to be brought into desperate 
requisition. 

At Weta's town an enormous leopard was shot by 
an old man. As soon as he saw the mammoth cat, he 
was taken with the trembles ; but, remembering that it 
was only the matter of a few moments which should 
have the first chance for life, he leveled his piece at 
the head of the crouching animal, and in an instant 
had the satisfaction to see that the object of his fears 
was stretched helpless on the earth. 

This trophy of the old man's prowess was borne 
home in triumph, and divided into many parcels. The 
chine- bone is considered the bone of contention; and, 
as soon as it is severed from the rest, it is thrown high 
in the air, in order that when it comes to the ground — 

" Those may take wlio liave the power, 
And those may keep who can." 

A general scramble ensues, in which it is clearly 
proved that a part is greater than the whole ; for the 
chine-bone can produce a greater row, and a bigger 
fight, than if the whole animal, instinct with its living 



14 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

ferocity, had jumped plump into tlie middle of the 
crowd. 

The physical features of the country are roughened 
by hills, valleys, and small plains ; and similar inequa- 
lities of surface prevail to what may be seen in the 
rear of Clay Ashland ; indeed, the Clay Ashland hills 
are a part of them, and must have been produced by 
the same physical causes. 

These hills grow bolder and more conspicuous in 
outline as we advance in the interior. Sometimes 
linked together by gentle depressions, and sometimes 
entirely detached from each other, they form no defi- 
nite range ; rising and running toward every point of 
the compass, they present all the varieties of figure 
and direction that hills can assume. 

Their composition, so far as could be discerned from 
their surface, was the ordinary vegetable mould, with 
boulders of iron ore, granite, white quartz, and a 
mixed detritus from these various rocks, charged in 
many places with thin-leaved mica, similar to that 
which is seen in the Clay Ashland hills. 

Before we reached the margin of the Boporu, or 
Boatswain country, we passed through long and almost 
unbroken strips of forests, upon a road partaking of 
the uneven character of the country, and strewn for 
miles with sharp pebbles and vitreous quartz, render- 
ing travel painful enough to the unshodden pedestrian. 
Huge boulders of granite were dispersed here and 
there, relieving the gloom and monotony of large, 
shady forest trees. This region is intersected with 
numerous streams flowing over sandy bottoms or 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 15 

granite beds, with a temperature of 58°, 60°, and 62° 
Fahrenheit. 

On Saturday, the 13th of March, we left Manneenah, 
and after traveling forty miles westward, we reached 
Bessa's town, at six o'clock p.m. 

Bessa's town is in latitude 7° 3' 19", in the western 
portion of the Grolah country. It is elevated about 
four hundred and eighty feet above the level of the 
sea. This town is located in a small, irregular plain, 
studded with palm-trees, and hedged in by hills in 
nearly every direction. It is strongly fortified with a 
double barricade of large wooden stakes; in the space 
between each barricade sharp-pointed stakes, four feet 
long, are set obliquely in the ground, crossing each 
other; this is to prevent the defenses from being 
scaled. The town is of an oval form ; the north and 
south points resting on the edge of swamps ; the east 
and west points, which are the points of access, are 
flanked with a strong quadrilateral stockade, with four 
intervening gates between the outside gate and the 
town itself. There are guard-houses to each of these 
gates, and people constantly in them night and day. 
To a force without artillery this town would give some 
trouble. It contains about three hundred and fifty 
clay dwellings, of various sizes, and between eight 
hundred and one thousand inhabitants, who may be re- 
garded as the permanent population. Of the transient 
traders and visitors it would be difiicult to form any 
estimate. The houses are huddled together in a close 
and most uncomfortable proximity ; in some parts of 
the town scarcely two persons can walk abreast. In 
matters of cleanliness and health, King Bessa can not 



16 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

be said to have seriously consulted the interests of his 
people. 

Bessa himself is a personage well known to one of 
our best citizens, Mr. Gabriel Moore. He is of Man- 
dingo extraction. I regret, however, to say that he 
is deplorably wanting in that sedateness and religious 
cast of feeling which usually forms the distinguishing 
characteristic of that tribe. 

I was informed that he had purchased a dispensa- 
tion from the rigid observances of that creed from some 
of the Mandingo priests, by paying a large amount of 
money. This license to do evil so affected our journey 
to Musardu, that it came nearly breaking up the expe- 
dition altogether. 

It was on a Friday we arrived in this town — a day 
said to be always inauspicious. We introduced our- 
selves as being sent to him by one of his own country- 
men, Kaifal Kanda, a Mandingo, living at Yannswah, 
with whom we were going to Musardu. 

He affected to listen with great attention ; spoke of 
the commotions of the interior, which, as he said, was 
a great obstacle and hinderance to all traveling just at 
that time. He also informed me that he would have 
to consult the other kings behind him before allowing 
me to pass; and he kept on creating difficulty after 
difficulty, all reasonable and fair enough in argument, 
but point-lank lies in fact. He had no cons ulting to 
do ; for he was at that time at variance with the princi- 
pal neighboring chiefs. 

I was not pleased with my first audience, yet I was in- 
duced to make Bessa the following presents : three bars 
of tobacco, one double barreled pistol, one large brass 



A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 17 

kettle, one piece of fancy handkerchiefs, and one keg of 
powder. This gift was received with satisfaction, but 
it was hinted that the king was anxious to trade with 
me for the rest of my money. I had, therefore, to dis- 
tinctly state that I did not wish to trade, as that would 
prevent me from accomplishing the object for which I 
had come, namely, to go to Musardu. 

Bessa now began to show how much he disrelished 
the idea of my passing through his country, and carry- 
ing so much money "behind him," as he expressed it. 
He offered me his fat bullocks, country cloths, palm- 
oil, ivory, etc. ; but I steadily refused to trade. Find- 
ing me inexorable in that respect, he began to grumble 
about the " dash," or gifts, I had made him. Some 
mischievous persons had told him that the gifts were 
insignificant to what it was the custom of Liberians to 
^' dash," or present, kings ; and Jollah, my interpreter, 
had some difficulty to persuade the king to the con- 
trary ; besides, he had his own reasons for remaining 
so incredulous. 

I had now struck the line of obstruction at this 
point. It was upon my refusal to go to Boporu that 
Kaifal had sent me to Bessa's town. Bessa, in carry- 
ing out this policy of non-intercourse with the interior, 
which is a standing, well-known, and agreed-upon 
thing throughout the whole country, now commenced 
a series of annoyances, his people acting in concert 
with him. He began with my Congoes. Every means 
that language and signs could produce was used to 
frighten and discourage them. They were told of the 
wars in the path. He also showed some Boozies whom 
he had in his town, whose faces were disfigured with 



18 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

hideous tattoo-marks, and whose front teeth were filed 
sharp and pointed, for the purpose of eating people ; their 
long bows and poisoned arrows ; their broad knives 
and crooked iron hooks, with which thej caught and 
hewed to pieces tho^se whom thej pursued. But 
what' more alarmed mj Congoes than any thing else, 
was the prospect of being eaten by the Boozies. Bessa, 
to make this part more vividly horrible, had brought 
into our presence several of his man-eaters, who were 
said to delight in that business. He then brought in 
his war-drums, the heads of which were the skins of 
human beings, well tanned and corded down, while a 
dozen grinning human jaw-bones were dangling and 
rattling against each other with a noise that reminded 
my Congoes that their jaw-bones too might perform a 
similar office on some country war-drum. It was by 
such means that Bessa entirely succeeded .in disor- 
ganizing the whole expedition. Pie gave the Congoes 
plainly to understand that they had better not hazard 
their lives in attempting to follow me to Musardu. 

My carriers, who had hitherto shown willingness 
and obedience, now began openly to disobey my orders ; 
and my difficulty was greatly increased from the fact 
that I had not been able to get a single civilized person 
to accompany me. I had no one, in consequence, to 
confer with, or to assist me in watching the movements 
of my mutinous Congoes. It soon became evident 
that there was an understanding between my Congoes 
and Bessa, and that all hands were conspiring together 
against me. Several times I had detected Bessa and 
the Congoes in secret consultation. I guessed at once 
the villainy hatching. I tried every means to induce 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 19 

the Congoes to disregard the idle tales that were told 
them by Bessa and his people; but neither advice, 
persuasion, nor the offer of donations above their pay 
could overcome the impression that had been made 
•upon their minds respecting the dangers of the route. 
Big Ben, the Krooman, kept himself aloof from the 
plots of the Congoes, yet he was in favor of returning 
to Monrovia ; and he made my ears ring with, " 'Spose 
we no find good path ; we go back now." The Con- 
goes began to hold secret meetings by themselves, and 
to talk in a low, muttering tone. Matters were now 
brewing to some mischievous point; but what their 
resolves were, I could never learn. With my Congoes 
in open rupture, Bessa bimself drunk, avaricious, and 
conspiring, I had now to exercise the greatest vigi- 
lance. 

One night, exasperated at their mutinous language 
and conduct, we came to a collision, in which all of 
us had recourse to our arms, and but for the immediate 
interference of the town people, things would have 
certainly ended seriously. I should have been riddled 
with their balls, there being fifteen of them. King 
Bessa, attended by some of his people, came to allay 
the disturbance. He could not have been furnished 
with a better opportunity of seemingly protecting me 
from the very mischiefs he had secretly instigated. He 
reproved the Congoes, and imposed a fine for breaking 
the peace — a gun and a piece of handkerchief being 
the cost of court. He never used his authority to 
enforce obedience on the part of the Congoes, which he 
could have easily done. No; he affected a neutral 
course, which had many by-paths to his own interest. 



20 A JOURNEY TO MUSAEDU. 

and through which he managed to transfer many a bar 
of my tobacco into his own hands. 

Much of Bessa's conduct arose from the defiant and 
refractory behavior of Prince Manna toward the gov- 
ernment. The moral effect of this man's conduct has 
been "any thing but beneficial for Liberia. Bessa was 
continually referring, with pride, to a man who could 
defy the government with impunity. Unless the gov- 
ernment shows energy and control, it will always be 
difficult to visit these parts — almost within the territo- 
rial limits of Liberia — for any purpose whatever. The 
fact was but too plainly humiliating, that we had lost 
2orest{ge and respect. The policy of too much modei'a- 
tion and forbearance is often abused or misunderstood 
by warlike barbarians, whose swords are an appendage 
of their daily apparel. 

Bessa now, in an advisory manner, repeated over 
and over again the difficulties of the route, adding to 
it the determination of my Congo carriers themselves 
not to go any further. To this he joined a series of 
petty annoyances — sometimes coming himself, and 
sometimes sending for me, to talk palavers. Then he 
would complain that the Congoes endangered the lives 
of his jDCople by their hunting ; that they would likely 
set his town on fire by their smoking-pipe, though his 
own people indulged in this thing not only to a greater 
degree, but solely through my liberality. But what 
exasperated me most was his jDractice of eavesdrop- 
ping ; his boys and people were continually lurking to 
hear what was said in my house. I was always ex- 
pected to conclude his royal visits — which were fre- 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 21 

quent, and which he gave me to understand were con- 
descensions on his part — with large bars of my tobacco. 
Bessa is naturally avaricious. This vice was un- 
fortunately worked up to its worst resource ; he drank 
niglit and day, until he had sufficiently steamed himself 
up to the courage for downright robbery. Drunk he 
gets every day ; and after the first two or three hours 
of excess are over, lie finally sobers down to that degree 
at which his avarice is greatest, and his regard for other 
people's rights least. There he remains. 

His couch, upon which he reclines, and which is at 
once liis bed and his chair of state, he never quits, but 
for a drunken carousal in the midst of liis women. 
This bed is stacked head and foot with loaded muskets, 
huge horse -pistols, rusty swords and spears, while sun- 
dry daggers, with their points stuck in the ground, are 
ready at hand " for the occasion sudden." He seems 
to live in perpetual dread of assassination. His peo- 
ple never come in his presence but in an obsequious 
stoop, and they never recover an erect posture until 
they are out of his presence. Bat when the women 
came, then you might expect to see humanity go on 
all fours. It was difficult to know the height of some 
of the women on account of this servility. 

Bessa is engaged in the slave-trade. Passing one 
morning through his town, I saw a slave with his right 
hand tied up to his neck, and fifty sticks of salt fastened 
to his back, about to be sent into the interior to be ex- 
changed for a bullock. Six slaves, chained together, 
worked on his farms. He has numerous other slaves, 
but they were better treated. 

I will not relate all the circumstances of his lashing 



22 A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 

an old slave until his cries drew the tears of all who 
stood by, nor his stamping in the breast of one of his 
slaves until death ensued, on account of some slight 
offense. Plis enormities are too many to recount them 
all, and would only weary the reader with what they 
know must be his habits, from what I have already 
said of him. He regretted to me the interference of 
the Liberians with the foreign slave-trade. 

It was now the beginning of April, and I had not 
been able to proceed upon my journey. My Congo 
carriers refused to go any further. Kaifal, the Man- 
dingo, still remained at Yannswah. I therefore tried 
to induce Bessa to hire me some of his people. I 
offered to pay him liberally if he would honestly en- 
gage in sending me forward. He accepted the offer, 
and received an amount of $66.40 in goods. He gave 
me four persons, to act as interpreters and guides ; but 
I had no one to carry my luggage, and he took good 
care that no one should be hired for that purpose. He 
was continually telling me that my money "no got 
feet this time." 

If I could have relied on my Congoes, I would have 
gone on, despite Bessa's attempts to prevent me ; but 
their defection paralyzed all movement forward. I 
could bethink myself of no other resource than to re- 
turn to Yannswah in quest of Kaifal. Not having any 
one in whom I could repose confidence enough to place 
my effects in their care until I returned from Yanns- 
wah, I had to run the risk of placing them in the hands 
of the king. On the 5th of April, 1868, taking two of 
my Congoes with me, I came to Boporn. There I 
met Seymoru Syyo, Kaifal's relation, a tall, fine-looking 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 23 

Mandingo, but whose very black countenance wore a 
still blacker cloud of displeasure because I bad not 
come to him direct, instead of going to Bessa. He 
scarcely deigned to look at me, especially as I was in 
no decent plight, having undertaken the journey bare- 
foot, in order to cross the streams more readily. He at 
length gave me to understand that, so far as Kaifal's 
going to Musardu was concerned, it depended entirely 
upon his (Seymoru Syyo's) pleasure ; muttered some- 
thing about the war at Musardu ; counted his beads, 
and then strode off toward the mosque, where they had 
just been summoned to prayer. 

On the 6th of ApriJ, 1868, I started from Boporu, 
and arrived at Yannswah on the 9th. Kaifal affected 
regret at having caused me so much delay, telling me 
that it was owing to his preparation to get ready that 
he was detained so long. He now promised to march 
immediately. This he made a show of doing by send- 
ing his women and scholars forward, telling me to go 
on with them, while he should remain behind to pray 
for our success. I consented ; but he managed to lag 
behind so long, that I never saw him again until May 
8th, after I had left Bessa's and come to Boporu. 

I now went back to Bessa's town, persuaded that 
Kaifal would soon follow. As soon as I arrived at 
Bessa's, Ben, the Krooman, informed me that the Con- 
goes had tried to induce the king to send them home, 
telling him that he might keep all my goods if he 
would only permit them to go home. . I went straight 
to the king, and requested him to deliver to me my 
boxes ; he at once hesitated, and I could scarcely get 
him to consent to let me have the box containing my 



24 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

clothes. After much contention and wrangling, he 
delivered up all the boxes, retaining the powder and 
guns. He then declared that I must pay him for all 
the Congoes I had placed in his hands ; that I must 
pay him a piece of cloth and a gun for each one of 
them,- as well as for feeding them while I was gone to 
Yannswah. He then made some other frivolous de- 
mands^ which, he deemed necessary to justify the rob- 
bery he was about to commit. 

To make the matter worse, the Congoes themselves 
now began to gather round me like little children, 
begging me to sacrifice all my goods, if it were neces- 
sary, to save them. " Daddy, no lose we this country, 
no lose we," was their continual whine. All spirit for 
a manly resistance had fled ; nothing but the most 
abject cowardice prevailed. Before I started on the 
journey, I had thoroughly armed these Congoes; but 
the only use they had made of their arms was to resist 
my authority. ISTow a peculiar danger stared them in 
the face — they had not even courage enough to save 
themselves from, slavery. 

I refused to comply with the demands of the king to 
pay the boys. I became exasperated ; but I was jammed 
between the power of the king and the cowardice and 
unfaithfulness of the Congoes. The king's Boozies, 
who walked the town with their broad knives to fight, 
and their teeth, filed sharp to eat their enemies, con- 
firmed the poltroonery of the Congoes as a standing 
and immutable fact. 

The king advised the- Congoes to talk to me, telling 
them, "Your daddy has got the heart of an elephant; 
you had better talk to him." . They attempted to talk 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 25 

to me ; but I was too much angered at their cowardice 
and kis robbery to listen to any thing. The king ex- 
torted $130; Ben, the Krooman, and Lonis, a Congo, 
negotiating the business. I refused to have any thing 
to do with it. After he had taken this amount, Ben 
and Louis begged him to be satisfied. He told them 
tliat he would refer the matter to his women ; if they 
consented, he would rest satisfied. This female assem- 
bly was consulted, and from the subsequent conduct of 
the king, they must have resolved that I should pay 
doubly. The extortions were renewed to an amount 
of $25. This occurred on Friday and Saturday, the 
23d and 24th of April. 

The next day I was somewhat able to command my 
feelings. I resolved to go to Boporu. ISTothing was 
more contrary to Bessa's wishes. He now tried his 
best to induce me to go on my journey through his 
country. He declared that unless the Congoes wanted 
to lose their heads, they should go along with me. He 
was willmg to furnish guides and interpreters. But 
my resolution v/as taken ; I was determined to go to 
Boporu ; no blandishments nor hollow professions of 
friendship could lead me to trust him after what I had 
just experienced at his hands. As he had been visited 
by some suspicious persons, who even counted the num- 
ber of my Congo warriors, it might have been agreed 
on to finish with murder what had been begun bv 
robbery. We were allowed to depart without further 
annoyance. The Congoes were overjoyed ; for they 
were sure that I was returning home. Bessa even 
sent six stalwart slaves to carry me, in order that my 
feelings might be soothed into some kind of forbearance 
2 



26 A JOUKNEY TO MUSARDU. 

toward him ; for he now began to fear that I might 
bring him to account, though it seemed he was willing 
to run the risk rather than restore the goods. I availed 
myself of the service of his carriers ; but I left the king 
with the bitter intention to do him all the injury I 
could as soon as opportunity presented itself 

I arrived at Boporu on the 25th of April, 1868. 
Kaifal had not yet come, and did not arrive until three 
days afterward. He now appeared indignant at Bes- 
sa's conduct, and affected the greatest diligence for our 
setting out immediately for Musardu. But first, he 
would go to Bessa and influence him to restore what 
he had unjustly taken from me. He induced me to 
make considerable presents to his friend and relation, 
Seymoru Syyo, helping himself also in a manner which 
nothing but my great anxiety for him to hasten our 
journey would have allowed me to permit. - 

Before he v/ent to Bessa's, the principal Mandingoes 
in the town, Kaifal, and myself, held a council, in 
which they strove to induce me to return to Bessa's 
with Kaifal; but I utterly refused. I would talk of 
nothing but soldiers, cannon, the burning of Bessa's 
town, and other furious things ; which so alarmed the 
Mandingoes, that they begged me not to write to Mon- 
rovia about the matter until Kaifal had gone and tried 
to get the money. In this council, the Mandingoes 
reminded me that, as the Liberians and Mandingoes 
were one and the same people, I ought not to act with 
too great a severity ; but I was not inclined to make 
common stock of my goods on account of that identity, 
and in a very impatient and unreasonable manner I 
gave them to understand that all their relationship to 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 27 

me depended solely on the restoration of my goods. If 
they failed in that, I was prepared to ignore all ties. 
I was in no humor for cant about kindred ; I wanted 
my money ; my feelings were sore at my disappoint- 
ments and losses. 

The expedition was deemed ta have fallen in pieces. 
My interpreter, Jollah, also commenced to show signs 
of desertion and treachery. I had always suspected 
him with being implicated in Bessa's villainy ; I was 
soon to discover that he had not been entirely ignorant 
nor innocent with respect to Bessas designs. His 
connivance, or rather the assistance he gave Bessa, 
was so glaring, that the Mandingoes at Boporu did 
not fail to upbraid him with it. In his conversation, 
he plainly showed that he had gone over to Bessa's 
interest, though he still continued to follow my boxes. 
The ^Mandingoes contemptuously asked him in whose 
service he was, whether mine or Bessa's ? Bessa, it 
seemed, had promised him largely if he (Jollah) assisted 
him- successfully in his villainy. JoUah's crooked ways 
were such that I could no longer retain his services. 
Interpreters began to prove a dangerous attachment to 
the expedition. Owing to Jollah's double-dealing, I 
was obliged to have recourse to a Yey man to act as 
interpreter ; and right in the middle of an important 
conversation which I was holding with Seymoru Syyo, 
this man suffered himself to be taken so ill as to become 
speechless, and he could only be induced to recover by 
the promise of a large (dash) present. 

Kaifal, it seemed, had greatly offended Seymoru 
Syyo by sending me to Bessa's instead of sending me 
direct to Boporu ; but, as I have before shown, it was 



28 A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 

not Kaifal's fault that I did not go directly to Boporu. 
However, the fault was imputed to him, and as he 
could only regain the favor of Seymoru by gifts, it 
was thought no more than right that I should bestow 
them, as it was through my persistence in refusing to 
go to Boporu that he had got into the. di£S.culty with 
Seymoru. As soon as mj^ boxes arrived at Boporu, 
Seymoru altered his demeanor toward me. His dark 
and grumbling countenance immediately changed into 
a smiling intimacy and friendship. He would fain have 
posted me on wings to Musardu. 

Though Boporu is the capital of the Boatswain or 
Condo country, and the usual residence of the king, 
Momoru Son, the king was at this time residing at a 
large town called Totoquella, eight miles north-east of 
Boporu. 

As soon as Kaifal started for Bessa's town, I re« 
solved to pay my respects to King Momoru. I arrived 
at Totoquella on May 7th, 1868. I was kindly received, 
and at once stated to the king that I would have been 
to see him much sooner, but that I was a stranger in 
his country, and had supposed that he resided at his 
reputed capital, Boporu; that when I came to that 
town, I was informed that he had gone elsewhere. 
He replied that he was accustomed to divide his time 
between the two towns ; sometimes residing at Boporu 
and sometimes staying at Totoquella. I then informed 
him of the object of my visit; and had to frame such 
an account of my former proceedings as to show that 
it had always been my intention to come to his coun- 
try, but that I had been thwarted by many untoward 
circumstances. And true it was that I would have 



A JOUKNEY TO MUSAHDU. 29 

preferred, at the first, going direct to Boporu, had it not 
been for the reasons already stated. 

Circumstances now forced me in that direction, and I 
addressed myself to the task of repairing the failures 
or misfortunes into which the expedition had fallen. 
The king was intelligent and communicative. He was, 
however, chagrined that the government — the new ad- 
ministration of which had just come into power — had 
not taken any notice of him, and sent him a (book) 
paper, expressive of its good feelings toward him, as 
had been the custom of all incoming administrations. 
He was always referring to a treaty that had been 
made between him and President Benson, during the 
incumbency of the latter. I had, therefore, to console 
him with the notion that, as soon as the administration 
had got fairly into operation, it would not fail to draw 
up an instrument similar to what President Benson had 
given him ;. as well as to make such other arrangement 
as woiild satisfy his utmost wishes. The king in- 
formed me that he was at that moment trying to stop 
a war between the Boozies and Barlines, two interior 
tribes; that he had, in order to promote that purpose, 
sent five hundred sticks of salt into the Barline coun- 
try, and the same amount to the Boozies; that he 
had instructed his messengers to use every argument 
to incline the parties to j)eace ; that the war was not 
only hurtful to themselves, but that it damaged him 
by interrupting all intercourse between his country 
and theirs, and even with the natives whose country 
lay behind them. He had sent, therefore, to beg both 
jDarties to desist; but if neither would listen, he in- 
tended to indemnifv himself for such losses as he sus- 



30 A JOURNEY TO MUSAEDU. 

tained by their feuds, by seizing persons and property 
belonging to them in liis conntry. If only one party 
was willing to comply with his requests, he intended 
to assist that side with his own military forces. 

Thus I had to endure the spectacle of a barbarian 
king practicing a policy wbich all intelligent and en- 
terprising persons must tbink ought to be practiced 
by the republic itself. 'No one suspects that we leave 
to an untutored barbarian the quieting and settling of 
interior difficulties, while we remain ignorant of their 
very existence. 

Every one would suppose that, to a source to which 
we look for a great part of our interior trade, such as 
country cloths, and bullocks, and ivory, a rational 
solicitude, at least, would be shown that it be not in- 
terrupted or broken off. Yet it is a fact that this royal 
barbarian, without revenue, and without any of the re- 
sources to whicb we pretend, by following the policy 
of interfering in all interior concerns, is better known 
and has greater influence from Boporu to Mnsardu, 
and even beyond, than the civilized Kepublic of Libe- 
ria ; and this is done by sending a few sticks of salt, 
accompanied by a friendly request or a threatening 
mandate. 

Salt, in the settling of difficulties, has a peculiar 
propriety — it is a sign of peace as well as a commodity 
of value for traffic. If it was the policy of the govern- 
ment to interfere in these concerns, a hogshead of salt 
might pacify the whole country from Boporu to Bar- 
line. The king had also interfered in a matter between 
the Boozies themselves ; in which it seemed that one 
of their chiefs, faithless to the common interest, had 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 31 

clandestinely given assistance to the Barlines against 
his own countrymen. This treachery being discovered, 
he had been seized and confined — or put in stick, as 
they call it. This mode of confinement consists in 
having the ankle of the right foot bound securely to a 
heavy log, four or five feet long, by means of an iron 
band driven deep into the wood. 

The father of this recreant chief, before his death, 
had placed his children under King Momoru's protec- 
tion. The king was therefore solicitous that this in- 
discretion should not cost the young prince his liberty, 
and perhaps his head ; of the former of which he had 
already been deprived, and the latter was being 
seriously discussed among the Boozie chiefs. In this 
affair the king desired that, as I would have to pass 
through that country, he wished me to assist in plead- 
ing for the young man. I pledged my best efforts. 

There was also a dificulty between the king and the 
Boondee people, who live north-west of Boporu. These 
people hold a nominal fealty to King Momoru, and even 
this they are slack or remiss in acknowledging. 

The king now chose to remove his court from To- 
toquella to Boporu. None was more eager for this 
change than myself; for it carried his person and influ- 
ence just where I wished to make use of them. He 
left the town May 10th, 1868, accompanied by his 
courtiers, warriors, women, servants, and musicians of 
the last of which there were two kinds : those who per- 
formed on horns and drums, and those who sang the 
praises of the king, timing their music with a sort of iron 
cymbal, one part being fitted to the thumb of the left 
hand, and beaten with a piece of iron by the right. 



32 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

When the king and his retinue had passed the outer 
gates of the barricade, a Mandingo priest came out 
and pronounced a benediction on the royal departure. 
As soon as this was over, we started ; the king walk- 
ing all the way: he had but to say the word, and 
they would have carried him. We were preceded by 
the singing men, who, with, the clang of their iron cym- 
bals and their vociferous vocalisms, nearly deafened 
me. After two or thr:e hours spent in traveling, 
halting, singing, firing muskets, and all sorts of noisy 
demonstrations, we came to Boporn. The king en- 
tered the town and went directly to his own resi- 
dence. Every body came to do homage and welcome 
his arrival. But nothing appeared more respectful 
than the Mandingo priests, who came in a body, habited 
in their white and scarlet robes ; tall, dignified black 
men, with countenances solemn and intelligent. It is 
remarkable how orderly and sociable these gatherings 
upon such occasions conduct themselves. ISTothing of 
the rowdyism and clamor for which communities 
highly civilized are sometimes notorious. The day 
was concluded with dancing, feasting, and warlike ex- 
ercises. The next day beheld every thing settled 
down into its usual routine. I was now to discover 
the character of Kaifal in its true light. He had 
always affected piety and uprightness ; nothing very 
material had occurred to alter my opinion. To be 
sure, he had lately shown intense craving for my large 
silver spoon, yet I was inclined to be charitable to 
this human weakness. He went to Bessa's, solemnly 
assuring me that he would be gone but two or three 
days; he staid three weeks, which caused my pa- 



A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU.' 33 

tience, and confidence too, to grow less. I dispatclied 
two of mj bojs after him. Upon the retnrn of my 
messengers, I was informed that he had been gene- 
rously entertained by Bessa, that a sheep had been 
slain, and other good ofGices done for him. I became 
alarmed lest such friendly cheer would lessen his zeal 
to recover my goods. But when I was further in- 
formed that Kaifal had been engaged in practicing 
certain rites, such as the interment of beef-bones bound 
round with transcripts from the Koran, which was to 
be ef&cacious for Bessa in peace or war, I immediately 
understood this last act to be directed against myself. 
I therefore lost no time in ingratiating myself with the 
king. And there was scarcely any thing I had to pro- 
pose that was not favorably entertained and facilitated. 
I had strengthened my influence by gifts, as well as by 
the great amnsement mj stereoscope afforded him. I 
had thoroughly instructed him in the purposes of my 
mission ; and showed him how discreditable it would 
be to his name and his honor if any thing should befall 
me and my effects within the precincts of his domi- 
nions, so that I should not be able to carry out the 
wishes of the promoters of the expedition. In this 
part of my affairs I was particularly blessed by Provi- 
dence in getting in my interest a near relation of the 
king's. He was a Golah man by the civilized name of 
Chancelor. He had long resided both at Monrovia and 
Cape Palmas with one of the best citizens. Dr. S. F. 
McGrill, and could speak English fluently, besides 
several native tongues. He adhered with unflagging 
zeal to my interest, and never ceased importuning his 
royal kinsman night and day respecting my affairs. 



84 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

He was of mild disposition, full of encouragement and 
sympathy ; having nothing to contradict the universal 
benevolence of his person and character except a huge, 
antiquated horse-pistol, without which he was never 
seen, and which became a subject of merriment, as being 
a burden without a benefit, perfectly- innocent in all 
things except its weight. I had now determined to 
use all my influence against Kaifal and Bessa. I had 
been robbed of one part of my goods by the one, 
and inveigled out of another part by the other. The 
purposes of the expedition had been baffled, though I 
had striven to the utmost to accomplish them. 

Momoru might be avaricious, but his avarice was a 
virtue to Bessa's rapacity and Kaifal's unprincipled 
dealings. If the king wished me to give him any 
thing, his requests were always accompanied with 
politeness and desert, arising from the prospect of his 
facilitating my journey to Musardu. I made a formal 
complaint against Kaifal and Bessa; presenting the 
king a written list of all the goods they had unfairly 
gotten from me. He convened the leading Mandin- 
goes of the town and the principal chiefs. The king 
himself opened this grand palaver, declaring "that 
owing to the acts of some of the Mandingoes, many 
things had been said by the Liberians tending to les- 
sen his character. Whenever the Liberians lost their 
money by trade or otherwise, he had always to bear 
the brunt of their dishonest actions and to suffer all 
kinds of disparagement of character." ISTor did he ne- 
glect to cite the instances ; mentioning as a particular 
case that of John B. Jordan, who had traded in that 
country and lost considerable amounts; and then he 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 35 

went on in detail, until he became angered. The Man- 
dingoes found it necessary to appease him by all sorts 
of condescension ; even the singing men were called 
in. It was necessary to adjourn, that the royal dis- 
pleasure might cool off. 

• The next day the business was resumed. It is the 
custom for every body taking part in a (palaver) dis- 
cussion, to deliver his argument or opinion walking up 
and down in the presence of his audience with a spear 
in his hands. 

This mode was observed by all the chiefs who spoke 
on this occasion. Many of them delivered themselves 
with such spirit and sense as to draw the frequent ac- 
clamations of their hearers. They declared that they 
not only ought to be careful about provoking the 
Americans against them; but, as the money was for 
the purpose of (dashing) presenting the chiefs through 
whose country I might pass, I ought to be allowed to 
give it to whom I wished ; and that none ought to ac- 
cept it unless they were willing to accept the conditions 
of the gift also. 

For the conduct of Bessa and Kaifal, the Mandin- 
goes at Boporu seemed to have been held as sureties ; 
certainly not by their own will or consent, but by virtue 
of their being most conveniently at hand for any purpose 
of indemnification that might arise. Kaifal, who was 
still at Bessa's town, was summoned to appear. Bessa 
was ordered to refund every article according to the 
list. 

The messenger charged with this business went to 
Bessa's in the most formal manner, being in complete 
war-dress. It was, therefore, understood that there was 
to be no triflino-. 



36 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

Things began now to conspire in my favor. 

Just about this time a young man by the name of 
Sanders Washington, from the settlement of Virginia, 
went to Bessa's town for the purpose of trading. Here 
he learned what had happened between Bessa and my- 
self He at once advised Bessa to restore the money 
before the consequences became serious. Bessa, becom- 
ing more sober than was usual with him, commenced 
to apprehend a severe chastising from the government, 
and right upon the heels of what was to be feared from 
the Americans came Momoru's no less dreaded de- 
mands. 

Bessa quickly gave up the things to Mr. Sanders 
Washington, and consoled himself in a drunken spree. 
Mr. Washington immediately sent the things to Bo- 
poru. 

Kaifal now made his appearance. It was the 28th 
of May, 1868. He came before the king and council 
dressed in a dark-blue tobe ; a red cap bordered with 
a white band, the badge of his sacerdotal order, on his 
head; sandals on his feet; his prayer- beads in his 
hands; his face and faculties prepared for the worst. 
He was ordered to account for the manner he had con- 
ducted my affairs. He commenced defending himself 
by declaring that what had happened to me was the 
result of my own obstinacy ; for when he wished to 
send me directly to Boporu, I had insisted on going 
elsewhere. He further said that if I could have passed 
through the country anywhere else, they would have 
never seen my face at Boporu ; which was indeed true. 
He caused disagreeable questions to be put to me re- 
specting that matter : this was his only advantage, and 



A JOUENEY TO MUSAKDU. 87 

lie cluDg to it. He declared that I had absolutely re- 
fused to go to Boporu, and that I had maligned the 
king, and that I had gone to Bessa's, where my indis- 
cretion had got me into trouble and made me lose my 
money ; that Bessa had acted in all things honestlj^ 

His argument was partly true and partly false. All 
he averred respecting Boporu was indeed true; but 
borrowing the courage which the truth about Boporu 
gave him, his assertions about Bessa's conduct were 
bold and barefaced lies. I replied that it was solely 
upon his advice that I had gone to Bessa's ; that as to 
my coming to Boporu, he plainly saw I was there, 
and that without consulting him. 

He dwelt incessantly on my refusal to go to Boporu, 
and more than once it was convenient for me to rid 
myself of his vexing questions by placing the whole 
blame upon his interpreter. 

We now came to that part in which he had taken 
my money and gone off to Bessa's, where he had staid 
so long that it became necessary to send for him. 
Being questioned why he had done so, his self-posses- 
sion entirely forsook him, and though he referred the 
matter to a rapid manipulation of his beads, it brought 
him no relief. He told them over and over, but they 
failed to enlighten his mind so as to furnish prompt 
replies and ready answers. He finally stammered out 
something about his waiting for the new moon. He 
had not regarded that luminary when he was getting 
the goods. 

He was made to restore according to the list. 

I was now in possession of all my goods again, with 
the prospect of being able to prosecute the exploration 
with success. 



88 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

I was also in a better state of mind to attend to my 
affairs in that respect, thougli, as I had all aloDg ap- 
prehended, the season for comfortable traveling, and 
especially for making astronomical observations, had 
nearly passed ; indeed, upon every attempt at an obser- 
vation, clouds and vapor made it a diflS.cult and uncer- 
tain matter. 

Boporu, the capital of the Boatswain country, is in lat- 
itude T 45 OS". Its elevation above the level of the sea 
is about 560 feet. The barometer, in the month of 
May and June, stands from 29.18 to 29.40; the ther- 
mometer ranges from 78 to 80 Fahrenheit. It is situ- 
ated in a small plain near the foot of some high hills E. 
N.E. of it. Yery high hills rise on every side, with 
an elevation from 300 to 650 feet, coursing along in 
every direction, some continuing three or four miles in 
length before their spurs come down into the valleys 
or plains. The soil of the plains is chiefly white and 
yellow clay ; but near the base of the hills, it is gene- 
rally mixed with the detritus of granite and other 
rocks washed down in the rainy season from their sides. 
Grranite boulders of various sizes are found on the sides 
and tops of these hills, and, unlike the granite of our 
cape, which is of a fine, dark flinty appearance, present 
many grades of tint and texture. A large piece of 
this granitic gneiss forms a part of the grave of King 
Boatswain, the present king's father, broken in such 
a way as to show the red, white, and gray in beautiful 
contrast. A little art might have rendered it more 
worthy to mark so mighty a grave. Every tree, flower, 
and shrub of our cape repeats itself here, not excepting 
the water-lilies seen in the creeks as you go to Junk, 
though not in the same profusion. 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 89 

At Totoquella, north-east of Boporu, and four hours' 
walk south-east from the former, the St. Paul's Kiver 
presents rugged and impassable falls. North-west of 
Totoquella are beds of specular iron-ore, wMch the 
natives break into fragments and use for sliot. 

The population of Boporu is of a mixed character, 
such, as war, commerce, and the domestic slave-trade 
are calculated to produce ; in consequence of which, 
there are as many different languages spoken as there 
are tribes : Yej, Grolah, Mambomah, Mandingo, Pessj, 
Boozie, Boondee, and the Hurrah, languages. The 
Yey language is used for general communication. The 
extent and population of these tribes are very variable 
elements. The population living in the town may be 
set down at three thousand ; but then there are many 
outlying villages and hamlets ; and considering these 
as the suburbs of Boporu, they undoubtedly raise the 
population to ten thousand. Many of the Mandin- 
goes themselves, though they reside in the town with 
their families/ have villages of slaves and servants 
scattered in every direction, wherever the purposes of 
agriculture invite or encourage. 

The Mandingoes possess strong moral influence. 
Scarcely any thing is undertaken without consulting 
tlieir priests, whose prayers, blessings, and other rites 
are supposed to give a propitious turn to all the affairs 
of peace and war. They are Mohammedans ; but as 
the ruder tribes do not addict themselves to the intel- 
lectual habits of the Mandingoes, it has been found 
necessary to adjust that faith to the necessities of the 
case ; and to temper some of the mummeries of fetich- 
ism with the teachin2;s of Islam. Yet are there to 



40 A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 

be found individuals wIlo do not prostitute their faith, 
and who are more scrupulous and sincere. It is be- 
lieved by many persons that the Arabic learning of 
our Mandingoes, in reading and writing from the 
Koran, is merely mechanical, or a mere matter of 
memory.' 

Kaifal took a small Arabic grammar given to me by 
Professor Blyden, and showed himself thoroughly 
versed in all the distinctions of person, gender, and 
number, etc., in the conjugation of a verb. How- 
ever, all are not equally proficient in this respect 

They have a mosque at Boporu, where nothing en- 
joined by their religion is omitted. It is attended 
solely by the Mandingoes, none of the other tribes 
visiting it; not because they are prohibited, for the 
Mandingoes would make proselytes of them all if they 
could. It is sufficient for the "Kaffirs," (unbelievers,) 
as they are denominated by the Mandingoes, to buy 
the amulets, necklaces, and belts containing tran- 
scripts from the Koran sewed up in them, to be worn 
around the neck, arms, or waist as preservatives from 
the casualties of war, sickness, or ill luck in trade or 
love. 

The Mandingoes are scrupulously attentive to their 
worship. They regularly attend their services three 
times a day : five o'clock in the morning ; three o'clock 
in the afternoon ; and seven o'clock in the evening. 

In these services I was particularly attracted by the 
manner in which they chanted the cardinal article of 
their creed ; and many a morning have I been re- 
minded of my own duty, by their solemn musical 
voices reciting : 



A JOUEXEY TO MUSAEDU, 41 




The Mandingoes living in the Boatswain coiintrj 
Lave many slaves. The slave population is supposed 
to treble the number of free persons. They are pur- 
chased chiefly from the Pessy, Boozie, and other 
tribes. Many are reduced to the condition of slaves. 
by being captured in war. Their chief labor is to 
perform the service of carriers for their masters in the 
trade of salt and country cloths carried between Bo- 
poru and Tannswah. 

Inconveniences and troubles frecp.ientlr arise from 
this kind of relationship. Sensible of their numbers 
and strength, the slaves sometimes make a struggle for 
their liberty. In the latter part of 1S66. at the death 
of Torsu. King Momoru's nncle. it became necessary 
to settle some debts pertaining to Torsu's estate. His 
relatives, in order ,to pay off the claims, attempted to 
sell some of his slaves. These slaves were staving at 
a town called Musadalla's town, south-west of Boporu. 
The attempt was resisted : some blood was shed : and 
a general revolt took place, in which all the slaves in 
the town determined to defend eiich other to the last 
extremity. They took full 230Ssession of the town, 
renewed the barricades, seized upon whatever arms 
were at hand, and made such other preparations as 
greatly alarmed their masters. This rebellion had been 
long purposed on ; the death of Torsu and the attempt 
to sell some of their number, served as a favorable 
opportunity to achieve their freedom. 

On the first outbreak, Kinsc Momoru sent them word 



42 A JOURNEY TO MUSAEBtT. 

to return to their former obedience, assuring them that 
he would overlook all past offenses. But while they 
were deliberating as to what answer they should re- 
turn, one of their women publicly harangued them 
against listening to any proposals for reconciliation ; 
that King Momoru only wished to induce them to 
submit, that he might the more easily punish them ; 
that if their hearts began to quail, they had better 
give their spears into the hands of the women. 

This speech instantly determined them to stand fast 
in their first resolutions. Kefusing all accommodation, 
they sought to strengthen their cause by purchasing 
the assistance of the Boondee people, who were at that 
time at variance with the people at Boporu. But the 
Boporu people had also managed, despite their differ- 
ence with the Boondee people, to engage their services 
against the slaves. The Boondee war chief received 
the gifts of both parties ; and in two weeks' time re- 
paid the poor slaves with treachery enough to chop off 
their heads. 

Arming himself and his people, he set out for Musa- 
dalla's town, and was admitted by his unsuspecting 
victims. After he had rested from his journey, and 
refreshed himself and his followers on their generosity, 
he proposed to review their numbers and their arms. 
Pretending to be earnestly enlisted in their affairs, he 
bade them lay their arms on the ground, or, as we 
term it, " ground arms," that he might the better judge 
of their efi&ciency. The poor, credulous fools, by no 
means suspecting any perfidy, readily did as they were 
bid. At a given signal from the Boondee chief, his 
own people instantly drew their swords and bestrode 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 43 

the weapons of tlie poor slaves as they lay on the 
ground. 

Thus disarmed, they were thus again enslaved, 
seized, bound, and led out of the gates to the town of 
their betrayer, who at once sent word to Momoru that 
he had caught the " slave dogs." He was rewarded? 
or rather he rewarded himself, by keeping all the wo- 
men and children, sending to Momoru only the men 
and our heroine who, by her speech, had so greatly 
encouraged the matter. It was determined in council 
that the slaves should suffer the penalty of death. 

On the morning of the execution they were de- 
manded to say who were the chief instigators of the 
revolt ; the poor creatures had but little to say. They 
were led out of the eastern gate, two hundred yards 
from which, and in the same direction, stands a huge 
cotton-tree (bombax) — the place of execution. They 
came down the path naked, and in single file, with 
their hands bound behind them. As the first person 
came on, the executioner with his broad and gleaming 
knife ran to meet him, and with dexterous cruelty 
emasculated him ; after allowing him to bleed and beg 
awhile, he was snatched down to the foot of the tree, 
his head hacked off and tossed into a ditch on one side 
of the road ; while the yet quivering trunk was thrown 
into a cat-fish pond hard by. 

The woman was executed with circumstances shock- 
ing to humanity and decency. All the women in Bo- 
poru were compelled to go out and witness her fate. 

But to the chief of this revolt it was reserved to be 
buried alive, heels up and head down, and a sharp 
stake, eight feet long, driven through his body level 



44 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

■witli the groundj and a tree planted over him. Their 
skulls now form a ghastly adornment to the eastern 
gate ; and I have seen many persons go up to them 
and recognize an acquaintance. 

It seems to be the practice in every town where the 
water favors it to have cat-fish pools. The fish are 
not allowed to be disturbed; they are not only the 
consumers of the oifal of the town, but from their 
shark-like and snappish manner, a more fearful office 
can well be suspected. They are from one to three 
feet long, and will lie with patience and expectation in 
one spot all day long, their backs raw with scars, 
which their own ferocity inflicts on each other in the 
fierce struggle for food. 

Boporu has a small market, held in the north-east 
suburbs of the town. The bartering is carried on 
solely by women. There is no established currency ; 
the exchange takes place of one commodity for an- 
other, according to their mutual necessities. It is 
generally attended by one hundred and seventy-five 
to two hundred persons. The articles are palm-oil, 
rice, kaffee-seed, shallots — a small species of onion — 
meat, cotton stripes, tobacco, kola, earthen pots, etc. 
A great many country cloths are made at Boporu, 
every family having a small loom. They would eco- 
nomize both time and labor if they would employ our 
large loom, instead of the narrow six-inch loom they 
use. I have no doubt they would do so, if any civi- 
lized person would interest himself to show them. 

These people are very sensible of the superiority of 
every thing that comes from (Dru-kau) Monrovia, and 
they attempt to practice our civilization of themselves. 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 45 

The king has a frame house at Totoquella, with a 
piazza surroanding it, all of native construction. He 
also uses chairs, tables, beds, bedsteads, looking-glasses, 
scented soaps, colognes, etc. He took gTeat interest in 
examining my sextant, and even the pictures in my 
books ; but that which afforded him the greatest plea- 
sure was the stereoscope. He entreated me so earnestly 
to leave it with him, that I felt myself bound to gratify 
his wishes in that respect, though I had specially in- 
tended it for Musardu. 

He was no less satisfied when I flattered him with 
the prospect of a school for children being established 
at Boporu, telling me that when John B. Jordan 
traded there, he was accustomed to get Jordan to 
teach him. 

The king spells a little, and is somewhat acquainted 
with numbers. This is the place for the missionary to 
be of service ; but it seems that, though Mohammed 
has a small mosque and school at Yannswah, almost 
in the Virginia settlement, the Christians have neither 
church nor school at Boporu. 

The king's authority seems to be of a mixed cha- 
racter. In some things he acts absolutely ; while in 
others, such as war, he takes the counsel of the subor- 
dinate chiefs. He is judge or arbiter of all important 
differences between his subjects. He is a most patient 
hearer of all matters brought before him. I have known 
him to remain in his hammock for whole days, listen- 
ing to what was to be said by either side, and his de- 
cisions seemed to be generally satisfactory. 

A very peculiar but advantageous method obtains 
in the administration of justice. In order to obviate all 



46 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

further trouble after the decision is given, both plain- 
tiff and defendant have to advance the cost and ex- 
penses before the suit begins ; the very articles in 
which these charges are to be paid are placed in a 
conspicuous manner in the sight of every body. The 
presence of the money thereby becomes an incentive 
and stimulation to strenuous effort. As soon as the 
case is decided, nothing remains but for the victor to 
sweep the stakes. These cases between his subjects 
are frequently taxing and vexatious, yet the king is 
said to always preside with patience and a well- 
balanced impartiality. 

But the king sometimes takes recreation from the 
severe affairs of life, at which time he is apt to enliven 
the hours of vacation from business with a glass of 
gin or whisky, and then he goes playfully around the 
town attended by his people. It happens' that his 
caprice is as innocent then as his gentle disposition is 
in his sober hoars ; for he hurts no one ; only going 
from house to house, joking with and receiving little 
presents from his friends. Sometimes he attempts to 
dance, or to act some warlike feat ; but want of youth 
and a rather fat body mar the practice. One day he 
insisted on the performance, to his no small discomfi- 
ture. He mounted himself upon an earthen hill, with 
a spear in each hand, in order to charge down in war- 
like style ; starting in full tilt, he came sprawling to 
the ground with such violence as to scarify the royal 
bosom in a most unseemly manner. 

Before I left Boporu for the interior, the king in- 
formed me that the distance, danger, and hazard were 
so great, that he must consult the sand-doctor as to 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 47 

tlie final issues of sucL. a journey. He declared that, 
upon all sucb. important matters, lie trusted not to 
human prudence alone. 

This individual, the sand-doctor, by giving his fin- 
gers certain motions in a small pile of sand, is supposed 
to read the events of the future. We were carried into 
a thatch hut. Our diviner, spreading out a small pile 
of sand with his right hand, began to invoke the demon 
of the pile. The whole thing was conducted without 
thunder, lightning, or any thing else, except.the rapid, 
voluble utterances of our diviner himself. Again and 
again it was demanded of the flinty wisdoms- whether 
or not the expedition should be successful; the re- 
sponses indicated by these sandy hieroglyphics bid us 
begone and prosper. Thus it was that superstition at 
this time seconded the purposes of a rational inquiry. 
The king not unfrequently chided me because I was 
indifferent and incredulous about such matters. 

Every effort was made by the Boporu Mandingoes 
to prevent my going. It was told to Momoru that ii 
any thing befell me, he alone would be held responsible 
to the government. Even old Gatumba sent word to 
Momoru not to allow me, under any circumstances 
whatever, to pass and " go behind them ;" for he de- 
clared that I was going for no other purpose but to 
ruin their trade. It was the first time, I was informed, 
that the king had set himself in opposition to the advice 
and counsel of his chiefs, many of whom were greatly 
opposed to my passing through their country to go in 
the interior. I therefore exerted the greatest industry 
in purchasing their silence or assistance. Eut to the 
Boporu Mandingoes I held threatening language, in 



48 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU/ 

which I informed them that if I did not succeed in 
going to their country, 1 would return and break up 
all their trade at Yannswah. 

Mr. Schieffelin's money, however, was the most power- 
ful argument. It prevailed over every obstacle; it 
reconciled me to prejudices and persons the most diffi- 
cult to deal with ; invoked the blessings of Mohammed 
on my head ; caused even the sands to become things 
of sense in my favor; singularly enlightened minds 
that before could not see why I wished to go in the 
interior, and finally reduced the prospect of my going 
in the interior to the most undoubted moral certainty. 

On the 14th of June, I left Boporu for Totoquella ; 
and on June 16th, we left Totoquella for the interior, 
our company consisting of three Congoes — Jim, Alex, 
and Pickaninny — as carriers ; Chancellor, the Grolah, as 
interpreter, and Beah, the Mandingo, as guide.- The 
rest of my Congoes, numbering fifteen, had returned 
to Monrovia, giving all kinds of false accounts of our 
proceedings. 

I had now again to experience the effects of the 
jealousy of the Mandingoes. They had determined 
that I should not reach Musardu. They therefore gave 
secret instructions to the Mandingo guide, Beah, who 
was to accompany me, to delay and shuffle all along 
the route, so as to exhaust my means and discourage 
my perseverance, and thus to finally thwart the expe- 
dition. It was through this man's tricks that I was: 
compelled to spend six months in going to Musardu, 
when only one was necessary. 

On Tuesday, the 16th of June, we left Totoquella 
for the interior, the direction being, with very little 



A JOUKNEY TO MUSARDU. 49 

deviation, east. The hilly features of the country 
became more striking ; large granite boulders were 
scattered here and there ; small creeks, flowing over 
beds of sand and gravel, drained the country from 
every direction into the St. Paul's Eiver. About half- 
past four o'clock P.M., we reached the north-western 
edge of the Pessy country, and halted at a small ham- 
let for the night. Here the barometer stood 29.19 ; 
thermometer, 84°. 

Wednesday, the 17th of June, six A.M., barometer, 
29.20; thermometer, 78° Fahrenheit. We pushed on, 
and passed through another Pessy village. The Pessys 
seem to have an abundance of poultry, sheep, and rice; 
here we halted. 

Thursday, the 18th of June, we started on our jour- 
ney, the country bearing the same hilly appearance. 
We halted at a considerable village, called Sellayo, 
about twelve o'clock. The chief was swinging in his 
hammock in a half-finished shed ; he was sullen, and 
scarcely spoke ; he, however, deigned to give us a lit- 
tle palm -wine. We made him a small (dash) present, 
at which he was quite displeased ; but we cut short all 
grumbling by starting off soon in the morning. 

Friday, the 19th, we passed through Nesebeah (red 
hill) and Pollamah, Pessy villages, and halted at Zel- 
leki's town at half-past three p.m. This village con- 
tained 250 houses, built in the usual style ; the body 
being of clay and of a circular shape, with thatched 
conical coverings. This village wore an indifferent 
appearance, showing scarcely any activity in any spe- 
cies of industry. On account of its sameness, we were 
3 



60 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

glad enougli to leave it. Outside of its barricade was 
a large creek containing cat-fish, as at Boporu. 

The only thing that rendered the idle hours tolerable 
was King Momoru's daughter, who had married a 
Mandingo residing in the yillage. She very much 
resembled her father, and was of the same jovial dis- 
position ; and when I left the village, she marched 
out before me, with my musket at shoulder-arms, at a 
military pace, imitating what she had seen at Mon- 
rovia the last time she was down there with her father. 

Saturday, June 20th, 1868, we reached Barkomah, 
the largest Pessy town in this direction. King Pato 
is not stamped by nature for a king, and his town is 
neither commendable for cleanliness nor industry. It 
contains 300 dilapidated houses, half a dozen cows, 
some large Mandingo dogs, about 800 inhabitants, and 
is surrounded on all sides by impenetrable jungle, 
which is considered a suf^cient barrier from all attacks. 
It is difficult to conceive whether this plan of defense 
was suggested by cowardice or laziness. We were 
lodged in a miserable little hut, about twelve feet long 
by eight feet wide, and five feet high. We had to en- 
dure this bamboo cage for ten days, because our guide 
had friends, who made him as comfortable as we were 
wretched. We were delayed under various pretexts, 
the chief of which was that, as my boys had almost 
given out, assistance had to be procured for carrying 
our luggage. 

On the 1st of July, we started from Barkomah, and 
crossed a considerable tributary of the St. Paul's Eiver, 
seventy-five feet wide, running in the direction of 
south-west between banks of clay, eight feet on one 



A JOUKNEY TO MUSAEDF. 51 

side and fifteen feet on the other, with a velocity of 
forty feet in fifteen seconds. The stream is ten feet 
deep in this place, and is known to overflow its banks 
on the eight-foot side in the depths of the rains. It is 
crossed on slender poles tied together. Only one per- 
son can cross at [a time ; and just as the burdened 
traveler reaches the middle, he is] arrested by a tick- 
lish swaying that threatens to unbalance him into the 
waters below ; here he dares not move until the res- 
tive poles regain their quiet. It has blighted many a 
prospect, or rather melted many a basket of salt. In days 
gone by, it was crossed by a suspension-bridge of wicker 
work, elevated fifteen feet above the surface, as appeared 
by the remains of logs and withes. This stream sepa- 
rates the Pessy country at this point from the Deh 
country. 

The Deh people are a small tribe intervening be- 
tween the Pessy and Bonsie people. They seem to be 
a distinct people, and speak a strong, rough, guttural 
language, similar to our Kroo tribe on the coast, whom 
they resemble in many other particulars. They have 
more fire in their eyes than the Pessy people, and are 
said to eat their enemies in war. After a half-hour's 
walk, we passed through the Dey villages of Mue Zue 
and Yalah, and halted at Dallazeah. The Deh people, 
in proffering their hospitalities, offered us dog for din- 
ner, whicli was politely declined. 

On Thursday, the 2d of July, we started from Dalla- 
zeah. Farms of rice, corn, cotton, and tobacco suc- 
ceeded each other in an order truly pleasing to look at. 
The people are very industrious. The women, on 
seeing me, began to tremble with fear ; and though 



52 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

some of my people, with whom they were well ac- 
quainted, tried to assure them, they could not be 
persuaded to . approach me. Keeping the direction 
east, we passed another Deh village — Malung, (water.) 
From here we came to the site of a large Deh town — 
Grellabonda, (lightning) — which had been completely 
destroyed by a civil war. It was so elevated that we 
had but to look E. S. E. to see a large part of the Bar- 
line country, and the very parts in which war was then 
raging. Indeed, we had hitherto followed the Barline 
route ; but at two o'clock p.m. our guide, Beah, changed 
the direction, remarking, as he did so, powder and ball 
were in the path he had left. We halted at Mahfatah, 
a small Deh village. At night, one of their houses 
caught on fire, and but for the activity of our people 
the whole of their frail bamboo dwellings would have 
been consumed. These people travel very little, and 
are consequently ruder, and, as I then supposed, less 
hospitable than the other tribes. We passed the 4th 
of July here, the barometer standing at 28.89, ther- 
mometer 80° ; ten o'clock A.M., weather cloudy. 

Friday, the 5th of July, we started on our journey, 
passing through several Deh villages. We also crossed 
a small falls called Grawboah, with water rushing over 
granite beds colored red and gray, with seams of white 
quartz and red feldspar ramifying the bed in many 
directions. We halted at Zolaghee, the largest and 
last town of the Deh people. This town contained 
800 houses, more or less in a state of dilapidation. 
Nothing is more disagreeable than to be obliged to 
take quarters in these decaying clay-built towns, espe- 
cially in the rainy season, when the mud, trash, and 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 53 

all the soil, frogs, and vermin of tlie town dissolve, 
crumble, and creep too near not to annoy sensibilities 
accustomed to cleanliness. "We managed to tolerate 
this town one day, in order to rest ourselves. 

On the 7th, we reached the Bonsie country, or the 
Domar division of the Bonsies. ^Ye passed through 
Powlazue, Unzugahzeah, Kaulibodah, and halted at 
Yahwahzue. These towns are large and densely peo- 
pled, surrounded with high and massive walls of clay 
and earth. It was here that the Barline people had 
been lately making reprisals, capturing the women and 
slaves on the farms. It was therefore necessary that 
our Bonsie friends should exercise constant vigilance, 
and be ready to sally forth from their walls at a mo- 
ment's warning to repel these incursions. 

You no sooner arrive in the Bonsie country, than 
a contrast of cleanliness, order, and industry strikes 
you. That tribe, continually represented to us as sav- 
age, fierce, and intractable, at once invites you into its 
large walled towns with all the hospitalities and cour- 
tesy that the minds of this simple, untutored people 
can think of. 

I arrived at Zolu s town on the 8th of July, 1868, 
at four o'clock p.m. The walls of this town are from 
eighteen to twenty feet high, consisting of clay, and 
very thick. A regular salvo of musketry announced 
my entrance, and quickly a band of music made its 
appearance, consisting of twelve large and small ivory 
horns, and a half-dozen drums of various sizes and 
sounds. I was conducted to the market space, in the 
centre of the town, and there w^elcomed amidst tlie 



54 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

blast and flourish of Bonsie music and the firing of 
muskets. 

Thej were astonished and overjoyed that (a Weegee) 
an American should come so far to visit them in their 
own country. A thousand strange faces, whom I had 
never before seen, were gazing at me. After their 
curiosity and wonder had been satisfied, they gave me 
spacious and comfortable lodgings, and commenced a 
series of hospitalities which, from mere quantity alone, 
became oppressive. 

The next day, my friends would have me put on 
American cloth ; to please them, I did so. I had not 
shaved for three months, and when I made my appear- 
ance in the 'Merican cloth, together with an unshaven 
face, the women and children fled in every direction 
from the frightfully-bearded Weegee. Many a Bonsie 
child was hushed to silence or sleep by being, threat- 
ened with the Weegee. I annoyed the women and 
children at such a rate, that I soon deemed it necessary 
to take off the American cloth and the beard also. 

This part of Africa likes a clean face, and especially 
a full-flowing gown, which is not only a more graceful 
attire, but more comfortable and healthy than the tight- 
fitting pieces which we call civilized clothing. This 
town, like Boporu, has its small daily market ; but 
the large weekly market, which is held every Thurs- 
day, and to which the neighboring towns usually re- 
sort, is held at Zow-Zow, a very large town fifteen 
miles E. N. E. of Zolu. I visited this market. The 
hum of voices conld be heard in the distance like 
the noise of a waterfall. It is attended by five or six 
thousand people. The bargaining is generally con- 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 55- 

ducted by the women, except the country cloth trade, 
which is carried on by the men. The exchange is 
generally a barter — one article is exchanged for an 
other, according to the mutual wants of the buyer and 
seller. Salt and kola, however, have the character of 
a currency, and large bargains are generally valued in 
these articles. They are the expression of prices in 
all important bargains. Kola usually performs the 
same service our coppers do in small bargains. These 
markets also have the character of holiday or pleasure- 
days. Every one appears in bis or her best attire. 
The women wear blue and colored country cloths 
girded tastefully around their waists, their heads bound 
round with a large three-cornered handkerchief of the 
same material. Blue beads, intermixed with their fa- 
vorite "pateriki," (brass buttons,) encircle their necks, 
their faces ornamented with blue pigment and smiles. 

In going around the market, and even on the road 
as you go to the market, you are sure to be loaded 
with ground-nuts, bananas, and rice-bread. Eice forms 
the chief breadstuff ; cassavas and potatoes next. Pota- 
toes grow to an enormous size, and will weigh from six 
to eight pounds. My Congo carriers were greatly 
elated when they bought a bushel of white rice for 
four brass buttons and a few needles. Considering the 
large farms and the quantities of old rice from the 
previous crop which must remain unconsumed, rice 
can never be a source of profit to these people until 
they have a road and conveyance to cart it down to . 
some civilized settlement. 

The two great farming staples in the Boozie country 
are rice and cotton. Sometimes the rice and cotton are 



56 A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 

planted together, but most of the cotton-farms succeed 
the rice-farms. The cotton- farms bear no proportion 
in size to the rice-farms, yet they are large ; for they 
have to clothe a country densely populated, where men, 
women, and children all go clothed, and no foreign 
manufactures scarcely reach them. Cotton-gins would 
be a blessing to these people; for the manner in which 
they are obliged to prepare cotton for spinning is pain- 
ful and tedious to the last degree of labor. This part 
of the labor is done by the w^omen ; the men do the 
weaving. The spindle is in the hands of every woman, 
from the princess to the slave. The dyeing of cloth is 
also done by the women, at which the Mandingoes are 
the most expert; and they know how to impart various 
shades of blue in a permanent and beautiful manner. 
Though they have abundance of camwood, I have never 
seen them use it for the purposes of dyeing. The chief 
colors used are blue and yellow ; the latter color is ex- 
tracted from bark. Taking into account that these peo- 
ple not only clothe themselves, but furnish the vast 
number of cloths that are brought to the coast to be 
nsed in the leeward trade, it shows what the cotton- 
producing power of the country would become if this 
primitive, barbarian industry were only assisted by some 
labor-saving machinery. 

On the second day after my arrival, I had a musical 
compliment paid to me. A dozen young ladies, from 
ten to eighteen years of age, serenaded me in the fol- 
lowing manner: A large mat being spread on the 
ground before my door, the young ladies seated them- 
selves and commenced singing one of the songs of their 
country, marking the time, as well as accompanying 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 57 

the music, by means of hollow wooden pipes four and 
a half inches long, through which the wind is forced 
by beating one end with the palm of the hand. When 
this compliment is paid to a friend, one of the young 
ladies who has tact and talent improvises a solo as to 
his good qualities, his bravery, his good looks, his 
generosity, etc., at the conclusion of which all join the 
chorus, repeating the words, "Emmamow," "Emma- 
mow " — Thank you, thank you. It is also a very deli- 
cate way of insinuation, when your liberality does not 
always satisfy their expectations. My liberality in some 
cases "becoming small by degrees and beautifully less," 
a young lady revenged herself on me by singing that I 
had a " giving face but a stingy heart," at which they 
all responded, ''Kella? Kella?"— Is it so? Is it so? 
"Well, thank you; thank you. This is indeed a very 
delicate way of insinuation ; but the ungenerous little 
rogue ought to have remembered that it was through 
my liberality that they were enabled to have all the 
fine brass buttons which they sported around their 
necks at the Zow Zow market. However, I hope it 
will be considered that I have done the state some ser- 
vice, when I announce that I have labeled nearly all 
the pretty women in the Boozie country as the property 
of the Eepublic of Liberia, with its military brass but- 
tons, (pateriki.) 

The Boozies are a very polite people ; the slightest 
favor is repaid with an "Emmamow " — Thank you. Do 
you dance or afford any amusement whatever, you re- 
ceive the "Emmamow." Are you engaged in any 
labor or business for yourself or others, you are as 
heartily " thanked" by those whom it does not in the 
3* 



68 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

least concern as if it were for themselves. If jou are 
carrying a heavy burden on the road, and happen to 
meet a friend, he thanks you as if you were doing it 
for him. My Congo carriers, who were nearly fagged 
out with the weight of their burdens, used to be an- 
noyed with this kind of civility, that contained all 
thanks and no assistance, and the Bonsie "Emmamow" 
was often exchanged for the Congo " Konapembo," (Go 
to the devil,) an exhortation not unreasonable where 
misery is prolonged by politeness, and where one having 
his back bent, burdened, and almost broke, has to be 
stopped to be thanked and to snap fingers half a dozen 
times. 

The soil of Zolu is chiefly a red sandstone, and the 
eastern road, worn down three feet by constant travel- 
ing and the successive washings of the rains, exhibits 
to this depth its internal peculiarities — red sandstone, 
consolidated in proportion as the depth increases, but 
of crude and crumbling consistence at the surface, with 
ramifications of clear and distinct veins of white quartz 
from one to two and a half inches wide. On some of 
the hills there are large boulders of granite j and some 
of them have markings crossing each other nearly in 
parallels, in a direction from N. "W. to S. B. and N. E. 
to S. W. The markings seem deeply ingrained, and 
are not so much sensible to the touch as visible to the 
eye. There is also in this country a stone of a very 
beautiful green color, capable of receiving a high polish, 
a large piece of which was placed at the eastern gate 
of the town for a stepping-stone, and which, in that 
position, from the frequent treadings it receives, had a 
finely polished surface. The character of the soil of 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 59 

the plains is principally claj and sand. The red sand- 
stone at Zola begins in the south-western portion of 
the Pessy country, at the town called Nessebeah, (red 
hill;) and it is in this vicinity that the soil, changing 
from a mixture of clay and sand and granite pebbles, 
forms a red clayey and sandy composition. Nessebeah 
is located upon a very elevated hill of red clay and 
sand, which presents every grade of condensation, from 
a loose soil to solid rock. In the town were huge 
granite rocks resting upon elevated beds of this red 
soil, as if they had been purposely placed there by 
human effort ; but they owe their position to some for- 
mer power of nature and the subsequent washings of 
the rains. The elevation and position of these rocks 
serve to show what vast quantities of soil have been 
washed down in the plains and valleys below. Yery 
extensive views are had from this site. The sides of 
the hills being rather steep, the soil, on this account, 
is inclined to shelve down, and to lay bare entirely its 
color and composition from the top to the bottom. 
These red slopes form a curious contrast to the abun- 
dant green vegetation with which their summits and 
the plains below are clothed. 

I arrived at Zolu on the 8th of July. Here it was 
that the Mandingo guide, Beah, according to the in- 
structions that had been given to him by King Mo- 
moru, was to spend a couple of weeks in trying to 
reconcile the differences between the Bonsies and the 
Bar line people. Zolu was also the town belonging 
to the young chief who had covertly assisted the Bar- 
line people, and who was now suffering the penalty of 
his perfidy. He was confined at Salaghee, a large 



60 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

town fifteen miles east of Zolu, by a chief called Daffah.- 
borrab. 

Three days after our arrival, Beab went to Sala- 
gbee, in order to open negotiations, both for the release 
of the young prince, Cavvea, and to stop the war be- 
tween the Bonsies and Barlines. King Momoru had 
already sent the same proposals for reconciliation to 
the Barline people by some Mandingoes, who were to 
act in concert witb Beab in bringing about peace. 
I^OT v/as Daffahborrah disinclined to entertain these 
proposals for peace. His town being on the confines 
of the Boozie and Barline territory, was more subject, 
on this account, to the incursions of the latter, and in- 
deed on his town had fallen most of the brunt of the 
war. 

Beah, after two days' absence at Salaghee, returned. 
He informed me that Daffahborrah had requested him 
not to bring me to his town, as be was afraid of the 
great war-medicine whicb his people had told him I 
had in my possession. This war-medicine was a bottle 
of nitric acid, given me by Dr. Dunbar for the purpose 
of trying gold. My Congoes having witnessed some 
of its effects on cloth, metal, etc., had given it a fearful 
reputation : A table-spoonful scattered in a crowd would 
kill a hundred men ; the least bit on a thatch house 
would burn up a whole town ; I had but to stand out- 
side the walls and throw it in the air to cause destruc- 
tion to any town. This bottle of '• medicine " began 
to give me great inconvenience ; every body refused to 
carry it. A big bandage of rags and thatch housed 
the fiery spirit ; great was the ceremony in assigning 
it its place wherever I happened to stop. Dafikh- 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 61 

borrah could not be blamed for refusing to see me. 
Beah returned to Salaghee, and remained three weeks. 

It was now about the beginning of August, and the 
depth of the rains; I therefore determined to shun 
all exposure from the weather. What I particularly 
dreaded was the losing or damaging my instrunients 
in crossing the creeks, with which a country rugged 
with every feature of hill and dale is everywhere inter- 
sected. In the dries, many of them scarcely contain 
water enough to cover the foot; but in the rains, they 
become torrents, eight and ten feet deep, with a swift 
and destructive current, being, in fact, drains or gul- 
lies tilted toward the main reservoirs, the St. Paul's 
and Little Cape Mount rivers. The rains had fairly 
set in ; yet the quantity of water is much less than what 
I have been accustomed to experience on the seaboard 
at l^onrovia. 

The country is every variety of hill, plain, and val- 
ley. Standing upon an elevation, it seemed to me that 
the people had attempted to cover the whole country 
with their rice-fields. Toward the west could be seen 
the rice-hills enveloped in showers ; succeeding that, 
whole mountain-sides of rice partly buried in vapor ; 
next to that could be seen a brilliant sunlight, spread 
over the brown and ripening plains of rice below. 

It would be difiicnlt to describe into how many 
scenes sunshine, showers, clouds, and vapor can vary 
a locality, itself an expression of every variety of 
change. Only here and there could be seen patches 
of large forest-trees. So completely had this section 
of the country been farmed over and over, that only 
saplings of three or four years' growth covered the 



62 A JOUKNEY TO MUSARDU. 

uncultivated parts. ISTor will they be allowed to 
attain a greater age or size before the requirements of 
agriculture will clear them for rice and cotton-fields. 

This is the chief reason why all the barricades, or 
walls of towns, in this section of the country, are formed 
of earth and clay, instead of the large stakes that are 
used by the natives living in the vicinity of Liberia. 

The Bonsie people have very tractable disposi- 
tions, and are wedded to no particular species of error. 
Eetichism has no strong hold on them. They be- 
lieve in that thing most that manifests [the greatest 
visible superiority or power. They are greatly duped 
by the fraud and chicanery of the Mohammedan Man- 
dingo priests. 

In general physical appearance the Boozies are well 
built, generally from five and a half to six feet high in 
stature, with stoutly developed bodies, of su£S.cient 
muscular strength to hold a United States musket, 
bayonet fixed, at full arm's length in one hand. They 
are an exceedingly healthy people, and of very clean 
habits. They bathe regularly twice a day, night and 
morning, in warm water, besides the intermediate cold 
water baths they are sure to take at whatever creek 
they happen to cross in their daily walking. For 
cleaning the teeth, they use a brush made of ratan, 
admirably adapted to the purpose. 

Paring the finger and toe-nails is carried to excess. 
And the women at Zolu are foolish enough to pluck 
away part of their eyebrows and eyelashes, things 
which nature had not too lavishly furnished them 
from the first. 

Many of the women are very pretty ; and for the 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 63 

many faces with which I am acquainted at Monrovia 
resemblances, and close resemblances, are to be found 
among the Boozies. Most of our people at Monrovia 
are fond of deriving themselves from the Mandingoes. 
I am sorry to say that this Boozie type of resemblance 
does not confirm an origin so noble and consoling. 
We must therefore rest satisfied with humbler antece- 
dents. 

As soon as the weather permitted traveling, I in- 
sisted on Beah resuming the journey. But he framed 
many excuses, and finally, to rid himself of my impor- 
tunities, ran off to Bokkasah, where his family resided. 
Thither I dispatched one of my boys, demanding his 
return ; but he refused to come. Beah was trying to 
carry out the secret instr actions he had received from 
the Boporu Mandingoes. To trammel and obstruct 
my going still more, he sent word to the Boozies at 
Zolu that they were not to allow me to go anywhere ; 
for if any thing befell Momoru's American man, they 
alone would be held responsible for it. Three times I 
endeavored to leave this town ; but the people, by en- 
treaties, presents, and every means of persuasion they 
could think of, compelled me to relinquish my inten- 
tions. 

Beah had duped them as to the real reasons of delay. 
Finally, it was appointed that if Beah should not 
return in two weeks, I was to go anywhere I chose. 
The time expired without Beah's making his appear- 
ance. 

On Monday, September 21st, 1868, I left Zolu, and 
went to Fissahbue, a town in latitude 7° 56' 09' K, 
and longitude 9° 50' 43'' W. I was now entirely 



64 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

abandoned by my Mandingo guide, to grope my way 
to Musardu by inquiry or instinct. 

Fissahbue is a double town, or a town partitioned 
into two parts ; occupied in one by the Mandingoes, 
and in the other by the Boozies. It is well built and 
clean in appearance, with a population of three thou- 
sand inhabitants. The king, Mullebar, is a fine-look- 
ing old gentleman of fifty years, very generous-hearted ; 
and who w^as the more interesting to me because he 
bad an equal dislike to Beab. 

On Saturday, September 26th, we left Fissabbue 
for Bokkasah. The rough features of tbe country 
moderated into extensive plains of long fields of grass, 
ferns, and tall palms ; the hills were at a short distance, 
trending along in a direction west and north-west. They 
had also changed the character of their formation from 
red sandstone to granite, and- 1 was struck to^see these 
round and bossy masses, with their water-courses shin- 
ing and trickling down their slopes. Some of their 
tops were thickly wooded, while small tufts or patches 
of grass were thinly scattered on their sides ; but its 
brownish appearance showed that the sun had parched 
it in its stony bed at the first approach of the dries. 
West of Bokkasah, granite hills rose one above another, 
crowned with a dense forest. Whenever it rained, a 
noise resembling distant thunder was always heard. 
In the months of July and August, these hills are the 
site of a roaring cascade. 

On the road, we fell in with people from all the 
neighboring towns, going to market. Sitting on the 
road-side were numbers of young women, with baskets 
of ground-nuts already shelled, offering them for sale. 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 65 

Our pockets and every other available place were im- 
mediately filled, gratis. Such is their custom to stran- 
gers ; and their gift was particularly enhanced by the 
repeated liberality with which both hands went down 
into the basket, and came up piling full, to be emptied 
with a gracious smile into the capacious pockets of our 
country coats. Then followed an exchange of compli- 
ments; and the three languages — Boozie, Mandingo, 
and English — got into a confusion from which smiles 
and brass buttons alone could deliver us. 

On we went, munching ground-nuts and receiving 
ground-nuts, snapping fingers and making friends, and 
occasionally consigning Beah to evil destinies. At 
last the road suddenly widened, broad and clean ; and 
the din of human voices assured us that we had come 
upon the market and the town. 

■ Bokkasah is in latitude 8° 10' 02''. It is a double 
town, similar to Fissahbue, one part of which is Boozie, 
and the other Mandingo. The walls that contain the 
Boozie portion of the inhabitants make a circuit com- 
pletely oval. That which comprises the Mandingoes 
butts up against and flanks the eastern side of the 
Boozie walls, and is also half oval in shape. 

On entering the town, we were shown Beah's resi- 
dence. Astonished at our arrival, he forthwith tried 
to make some slight atonement for his former short- 
comings by the diligence with which he procured us 
comfortable lodgings. We were soon domesticated in 
the town, kindling up friendships on all sides. The 
Mandingoes made it a point to be foremost in all these 
alliances. Since I was going to their countr}^, they took 
me in their special charge. Among the many attentions 



66 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

paid me, I was invited by a young Mandingo lady to 
go with her to see her mother. We had no sooner 
arrived at the house, than she commenced calling out, 
*' Ma, ma !" ' I waited to hear what would follow ; but 
the next words were in musical Mandingo, informing 
her mother that she had brought the Tibbabue (Ameri- 
can man) to see her. The Mandingoes nse the same 
words in calHng mother that we do. This interview 
ended satisfactorily in a large bowl of rice, with fried 
chicken, palm-wine, etc., together with a standing 
invitation to come to her house every day while I re- 
mained in Bokkasah. 

The young lady was married to a young Mandingo 
by the name of Fatomah, whose father, Phillakahmah, 
resided at Boporu, but was then in the Barline coun- 
try. The kindness and good office of this family were 
untiring. I also had many friends in the -eastern part 
of the town, who were constant in their attention to me. 

Bokkasah contains about fifteen hundred houses, and 
about seven thousand inhabitants. It is very perplex- 
ing on the first entrance of a stranger to find his way 
in these towns ; for the houses seem to be dropped by 
accident into their places, rather than placed after any 
organized method. Chancellor, my interpreter, though 
well accustomed to these kind of towns, was not at all 
times assured of his own whereabouts. A woman gave 
him water to bathe; after he had performed his ablu- 
tions, he found himself naked, lost, and ashamed to 
ask where he was. He wandered over the town with 
the vessel in his hand, until some one, guessing the 
truth, brought him home. One does not lose his way 
on account of the size of these towns, but on account 



A JOURNEY TO MUSAKDU. 67 

of the manner in wliich the houses are sprinkled about. 
You can march up to your house without knowing it, 
so completely does similarity and confusion repeat 
itself. 

The market of Bokkasah, which is held every 
Saturday, is one of the principal markets in the 
Domar country. It is attended by six or seven 
thousand people. The articles of exchange are nume- 
rous. It is also a great country cloth market. In all 
these markets throughout the Boozie and Barline 
countries, the small country cloth known among us 
as the trade country cloth is not to be seen. It is 
owing to the mischievous industry of our friends at 
Boporu and its vicinity that these country cloths are 
reduced to so small a size. It is the business of these 
interlopers in trade to take large country cloths to 
pieces, and make them smaller. Similar is their deal- 
ing with every species of trade, to its great diminution 
and discouragement. If the interior trade amounted 
to millions of dollars in value to the republic, it could 
never reach our seaport towns while the border of our 
influence has been removed by tribal interference and 
war, and confined to the very seacoast settlements 
themselves. These obstructions can only be removed 
by the energetic action of government. 

Bokkasah is a town very convenient and cheap for 
living. Abundance of vegetables, rice, beans, potatoes, 
plantains, bananas, ground-nuts, etc., are to be had at 
all times at the daily market. 

While I was staying here, I dispatched one of my 
Congoes to Begby, a Mandingo chief, living at a town 
called Bokkadu, near the Boondee country, in a west- 



68 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

ward direction. As he was anxious to see some one 
who had come from an American town, and in Ameri- 
can dress, I tried to gratify him in that respect. This 
Congo, before he reached Bokkadu, crossed the St. 
Paul's Kiver on a bridge of wicker-work, and the Cape 
Mount Eiver, which was much wider, on a^ corkwood 
float. This journey occupied three days. Both of 
these rivers flow from the north-east. 

Among some of the singular institutions that prevail in 
this country, is a kind of convent for women, in the mys- 
teries of which, every woman has to be instructed. 
What these mysteries are I have never been fully in- 
formed. They consist in the main of a peculiar kind 
of circumcision and of certain other practices neces- 
sary for health. Attached to the outer wall of the 
town are the houses, fenced in on all sides from the 
gaze of passers-by, and especially excluded against the 
entrance of men. It is death to any man to be caught 
within the precincts, which is instantly inflicted with- 
out reprieve by the women themselves. 

There are, however, holidays in which the rigid 
rules of the institution are relaxed, and every body is 
permitted to go in and see their friends withou.t dis- 
tinction of sex. During my stay here, one of these 
holidays occurred, and I was invited to visit the sacred 
grounds of this female mysticism. It consisted of 
rows of long huts built low to the ground, the lodgings 
of the devotees. Each complement belonging to a 
hut were seated in a line, in front of their dwellings, 
on a mat. Their heads were wound round with enor- 
mous turbans, and their bodies decked out in all the 
finery their friends in town could afford. They kept 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 69 

their heads hanging down, in a solemn manner. Even 
children, six or seven years of age, were included in 
this moping, surlj observance. Their friends from 
town crowded around, delighted at the sight, and witli 
unfeigned pleasure asked me if it was not fine. I 
shiould have been more pleased to have heard these 
women and children laughing and singing in their rice 
and cotton-farms, than to have seen them tormenting 
themselves with a senseless, morose custom. I was 
carried into one of their establishments, and made to 
shake hands with, my moody sisters. 

As I have befoYe related, this was the town in which 
my Mandingo guide, Beah, and all his family resided. 
Three days after my arrival, he disappeared, pretending 
lie had immediate business at Salaghee^ leaving word 
with the town-people not to allow me to go anywhere 
until he returned. I was determined to free myself 
from his tricks, and I exposed to his friends his deal- 
ings with me when I was at Zolu. His friends, and 
especially his mother and sisters, besought me to wait 
for him. After a week had expired, I grew impatient 
to start ; but the whole family of women came, cross- 
ing their hands, and placing themselves in the most 
suppliant attitudes, crying, "Ejung, Ejung"— I beg 
you ! I beg you 1 These poor women were honest, 
and knew nothing of their relation's crooked dealings. 
They made use of various ways to reconcile me to 
further delay. I had now been at Bokkasah three 
weeks, and had been foiled in every attempt to get 
away. The sort of hinderances through which I had 
now to struggle were not downright tyrannical opposi- 



70 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

tion ; they were of a more powerful and moral kind ; 
supplications based upon kindness and generosity. 

About this time an old Mandingo priest whom I had 
met at Bessa's town arrived. After he had been in 
town two days, he sent for me, and appeared glad 
to see me. I related to him the difficulties I experi- 
enced from Beah's actions. He advised me to be care- 
ful, and not to force my way through the country, as 
there had been a plot made to hurt me ; and he went 
on to make many dark and pregnant insinuations. 
He exhorted me to patience and prayer, the contraries 
of which I had been provoked to by the artifices of 
Beah, and the consequent delays he had occasioned 
me. The next day the Mandingo priest told me that 
I had better make a '' Sallikah," which is an offering 
to good luck. This offering was dictated by the priest 
himself. It was to be a sheep, a penknife, a white 
country cloth, and ten white kola. Not knowing what 
divinity was to be appeased, I refused to make the 
sacrifice or oblation ; for this priest was subsisting on 
a dry vegetable diet, the hospitality of his stingy breth- 
ren, and he was poor, very poor. The sacrifice or 
offering was to be delivered to him to be buried in the 
ground. But who could not see the crafty old priest 
and his hungry students in a congratulatory chuckle 
over a fat sheep, a penknife, a country cloth, and a fool 
of a Tibbabue ? 

This sort of priest is numerous, needy, cunning, 
and mischievous ; they distribute themselves in all the 
towns between Musardu and Boporu ; and they did 
not fail to present themselves to me throughout the 
journey as " god-men." But I gave them plainly to 



A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 71 

understand that I was not to be grilled by their prac- 
tices. 

I now dissembled my anxiety to depart, putting on 
a semblance of cheerfulness to. abide where I was, 
and a perfect indifference about going anywhere. 
Every afternoon I would dress myself in my Mandin- 
go toga, and go in the eastern part of the town to 
visit my friends. Here we would fritter away the time 
in talking and singing, and I musically entertained 
several of my Mandingo friends with the beauties of 
" Dixie." We would then clap into our prayers, they 
repeating the Fatiha, and I reciting the Lord's Prayer. 
A young lady begged that I would write off this 
prayer for her, in order that she might have it to wear 
around her neck, as well as to have fillets made of it 
to bind around her temples, as she was sometimes 
troubled with the headache. I wrote it off for her ; but 
I made her understand, at the same time, that its effi- 
cacy consisted in healing the ailments of the soul, and 
not of the body. While we were thus handsomely 
enjoying ourselves, the terrible Dowilnyah sent his 
messengers for me to come and see him. 

Dowilnyah is the king of the Wymar Boozies. His 
messeogers were tall black men, with red and restless 
eyes, tattooed faces, filed teeth, huge spears, and six feet 
bows. They also had a reputation which remarkably 
corresponded with their appearance. 

A discussion arose as to the safety of my going, and 
it caused a disagreement that ended in the return of 
the messengers without me. In a week's time the mes- 
sengers returned again. I had resolved to go with 
them. But my friends did all they could to dissuade 



72 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

me. Many of Dowilnyali's atrocities were repeated to 
me; how, when he had suspected the fidelity of one of 
his wives, he compelled her to pound the child of her 
supposed illicit connection in a mortar ; how he had 
wantonly shot one of his wives, remarking, as he did 
so, that her had only shot a dog ; his terrible cruelty to 
his prisoners whom he captured in war ; and even his 
cruelty to his own children, one of whom he threw 
among the drivers, {termites hellicosi^) and which was so 
mutilated by these voracious insects that the child lost 
one of its arms. He had no peer in cruelty and wick- 
edness except Comma, who was now dead, but who, 
when living, went hand in hand with him in evil 
deeds. Comma's town, it must be remembered, was 
the place where Seymore had his right hand nearly 
slashed off. 

I, however, left Bokkasah for Dowilnyali's on Mon- 
day, the 2d of November, 1868, and arrived at Uk- 
baw-Wavolo, a village at which he was residing, on 
Thursday, the 5th of E'ovember, 1868. 

Before reaching this village, we halted in our journey 
at Nubbewah's town. It was well built, clean, and 
strongly fortified. We were brought into the presence 
of JSTubbewah, the chief. He was an old man ; tall, or 
rather long — as he was lying down — thin, and looked 
to be much emaciated by sickness. It was diJBGlcult to 
arouse him from the lethargic insensibility into which 
he had fallen. His attendants, however, succeeded in 
awakening him to the fact of our presence ; but, as we 
still seemed to be regarded as a dream, I thought pro- 
per to quicken his consciousness by blazing away with 
my revolver against his earthen walls. This act per- 



A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 73 

fectlj startled liim into a proper regard for onr dignity 
and welfare, and thereupon we were well fed, comfort- 
ably lodged, and liberally presented with mats and 
country cloths, etc. 

On Wednesday, we traveled until we reached Boe, 
a very large town belonging to the Wymar Boozies. 
This town, with some outlying villages, is the begin- 
ning of tlie Wymar country, which is separated from 
the Domar by a narrow creek, acknowledged as a 
boundary. The village where the king was staying is 
E.N.E. of Boe, and about two and a half hours' walk 
from that town. 

A temporarj^ misunderstanding between the king 
and some of his chiefs had caused liim to reside in 
this secluded hamlet. 

It appears that Boe had been threatened with an 
attack from the Domar Boozies. Succor was immedi- 
ately requested from Dowilnyah, who quickly marched 
from his capital, Grubbewallah, to the defense of Boe. 
He succeeded in defeating the Domars. But during 
his residence at Boe, so overshadowing was his influ- 
ence and power, that the subordinate chiefs found 
themselves nearly stripped of the authority they were 
accustomed to exercise. A general dissatisfaction en- 
sued, on which the king became so indignant that he 
withdrew from Boe, drawing in his train every thing 
that rendered that town attractive and important. 
He remained deaf to every solicitation to return. 
And here, at this village, he held his court, giving au- 
dience to the messengers of interior chiefs, granting 
lavors, adjusting disputes. The village was alive with 
4 



T4: A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

the chiefs of other towns, messengers going and coming^ 
fine-looking women, warriors, etc. 

"When we drew near the village, we were requested 
by our guides to discharge our pieces, in order to in- 
form, the king of our arrival. This being done, we en- 
tered.' The king, seated on "a mat, was dressed in a 
gaudy-figured country robe ; on his head was a large 
blue and red cloth cap, stuck all over with the talons 
of large birds. At his side was seated his chief coun- 
selor, whose name was Jebbue, a man of very large 
proportions, but of a mild and gentle countenance. 
The king was surrounded by his people, all various- 
ly dressed in white, blue, striped, and yellow country 
coats. 

His countenance assured us that he had not been 
misrepresented, notwithstanding his effort to compose 
it in a peaceful manner. It was one of the most 
threatening and the blackest visages I had seen for 
some time. He bade me welcome. A mat was then 
spread, upon which we seated ourselves. Suddenly his 
iron horns and drums sounded, his warriors rushed 
forth from their concealed places, performing all the 
evolutions of a savage and barbarous warfare. The 
thundering plaudits of the people themselves increased 
the din. After this tremendous flourish had subsided, 
the king arose, and stepping forward, he waved his 
right hand in all directions, announcing by that ges- 
ture the uncontrolled authority with which he reigned 
in his dominions. Being welcomed again and again to 
his country, we were shown, to our lodgings, which, 
though just temporarily erected, were comfortable. 

Friday, 6th of November, 1868, I visited the 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 70 

king. Stating tliat we had come to see liis country, 
and to make ourselves -well acquainted with him and 
all his people, we then delivered our presents, which 
consisted of a piece of calico ; a mnsic-box, with which 
he was especially pleased ; two pocket handkerchiefs, 
one pair epaulets, two bottles cologne, one clasped 
knife, three papers needles, one large brass kettle. He 
was delighted ; he told me that I should not regret my 
visit to his country ; and come who would after me, I 
should always hold the first place in his estimation ; 
that he had been informed of all that had been said 
against him to prevent my coming to see him; but 
as I had disregarded these reports, he would show me 
that my confidence had not been misplaced. 

He was anxious to see my revolvers, the fearful re- 
putation of which preceded me everywhere I went. 
They were shown; their use explained, and their 
effect exaggerated. When he had also seen the astro- 
nomical instruments, his courage entirely forsook him. 
He requested me to give him some medicine to pre- 
vent his enemies from poisoning him. I replied that I 
had no such medicine ; that by exercising the proper 
precaution in eating and drinking, he might be able to 
escape the evil intention of his enemies. 

He next requested me to fire my muskets, that he 
might see the mysteries of a cap-gun ; and he caused 
all the broken pieces of the exploded caps to be 
gathered and preserved. I had to take some pains to 
dismiss his apprehensions that I would hurt him in any 
way. 

He celebrated my visit to his country by a war- 
dance. He commenced it with some of his old habits, 



76 A JOUllNEY TO MUSAEDU. 

in which, however, palm-wine flowed instead of blood. 
After he had supped off" about a quart of that beverage, 
he retired to his residence, and in the lapse of fifteen min- 
utes, the clamor of his people and his war-drums sig- 
nified his reappearance. Pie came forth with wild and 
prodigious leaps; a Y\^ar-cap of leopard-skin, plumed 
with horse-hair, covered his head; he was naked to 
the waist, but wore a pair of Turkish-shaped trowsers. 
He had a large spear in his right hand. His dress 
and enthusiasm had completely metamorphosed him. 
His black and lowering countenance had undergone a 
terrible change, which was heightened by the savage 
grin which his white teeth, imparted to it. The most 
frantic gestures now took place, amid the stunning 
plaudits of the whole town. 

This being ended, the king called upon his women 
to give the finishing stroke to this happy business. 

The ladies of Wymar are fond of dancing, and they 
spend much of their time in this amusement: they are 
not acquainted with the polite and delicate paces of 
their sisters at Monrovia; but for downright solid- 
footed dancing, they can riot be surpassed. They are 
all fine, large, robust women, and have the happiest- 
looking countenances in the world. 

African rulers in these parts travel very leisurely 
from one point to another, and at every intermediate 
place where they may halt, are sure to spend as much 
time as would be necessary to carry them to their final 
destination. This careless, lounging habit of wasting 
time is an incurable one; arguments or persuasion 
strengthened by gifts can not overcome it. 

The king had inforrned m^e of his intention to leave 



A JOUEXEY TO MUSAEDU. 77 

tliis Tillage for his ottd. town ; the very day was ap- 
pointed He did not leave, however, until two days 
afterward. On Tuesday, 10th November, the king re- 
quested me to fire my muskets, in order to announce 
to the neighboriDg towns and villages his departure. 

He jDreferred my guns, because their report was 
louder than the cracking of his little English fusees, 
many of which I was assured had come to him by the 
way of Musardu through the Mandingoes. 

At ten o'clock we started, the king being attended 
by his friends, body-guard, musicians, and women. 
Happily the town to which we were going lay on the 
road direct to Musardu. About three o'clock we came 
to Ziggah Porrah Zue, the largest town and the capi- 
tal of the TVymar country. The king before entering 
the town made a halt to put on his robes. Every body 
dressed themselves. I was even requested to put on 
my uniform, which I did. After much firing and 
music, we entered, amid the applause and gaze of the 
whole town. After we had passed the gate and tra- 
versed the town some distance, we found ourselves en- 
countered by another gate and wall ; this contained the 
middle town. TTe passed on, and soon arrived at the 
gate and wall of the central town. Thus there are 
three towns, with their walls concentricallv arrancred. 
The inner walls were, however, much, dilapidated, and 
served only to show in what manner the whole town 
had been successively enlarged ; for as soon as an ou^ 
side wall had been built around the new outside town, 
the inner wall was suffered to decay. The exterior or 
outside wall, though of great extent, was in good re- 
pair. TTe were conducted to the market-space in the 



78 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

central town, which was spacious and convenient for 
holding large crowds. Some arrangement and order 
being introdaced, a speech of welcome was delivered 
by the old chief of the town, Dowilnyah's uncle. At 
the conclusion, every trumpet, consistingof forty pieces, 
sounded. The band of ivory and wood belonged to 
the town ; and it must be confessed that though the 
execution was simple, in effect it was really fine. 
Many speeches were made, the end of which was al- 
ways concluded with music from the bands. These 
three bands did not all play at the same time, but suc- 
cessively, one after another, the king's band being 
allowed the precedence. 

After speech-making came the war-dances of the 
principal chiefs, the women cheering them on. Each 
chief, as soon as he had performed his part, was imme- 
diately saluted by the king's bodj^-guard, who, march- 
ing forward to meet him, acknowledged by that act his 
valor and achievements. Dowilnyah closed the fes- 
tivities by exhibiting his own warlike prowess. We 
were assigned our lodgings. Every day we passed in 
this town was given to festivity and enjoyment. 

One of their chief amusements was a "jack upon 
stilts," a fellow fantastically dressed, wearing a false face, 
and mounted upon stilts ten feet high fitted to the soles 
of his feet — with which he danced, leaped, and even 
climbed upon the houses. He was full of clownish 
tricks and sayings, and made much sport for the 
crowds; he belonged to the king's train, a sort of king's 
fool. The women are really the industrious part of 
the population; for while their lords are wholly de- 
voted to pleasure, palavers, and wars, the women are 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 79 

engaged in numerous domestic duties, and especially in 
spinning cotton. Here, also, as in the Domar country, 
the spindle is in the bands of every woman, from the 
princess to the slave. The women, however, enjoy 
themselves, particularly on market-days, which at this 
town takes place every Sunday. 

This market is seated on the banks of the St. Paul's 
Eiver, and is carried on under the shade of large cotton 
(bombax) and acacia-trees. The commodities of ex- 
change are country cloths, cotton stripes, raw cotton^ 
iron, soap, palm-oil, palm-butter, ground-nuts, rice, 
plantains, bananas, dried fish, dried meat, peas, beans, 
sweet potatoes, onions, (chalots,) snuff, tobacco, pipes, 
salt, earthen pots or vessels for holding water and for 
cooking purposes, large quantities of Kola slaves, and 
bullocks. The bullocks are generally brought by the 
Mandingoes to the market. Palm-wine is not allowed 
to be sold in the market. Peace and order are secured 
by persons especially appointed for that purpose. 
After every body has assembled on the ground, these 
preservers of the peace with long staves in their hands 
go through the market, ordering every body to sit 
down; they then admonish the people to carry on 
their bargains peacefully and without contention. 
This preliminary being gone through with, the market 
is opened. It is generally attended by six or seven 
thousand people. There are several large markets held 
in the Wymar country ; the one at Comma's town is 
larger than this. The daily market held in the cen- 
tral town is very convenient for making small pur- 
chases. 

On Saturdays, sitting under the shade of large 



•80 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

acacia-trees, I have watched the almost uninterrupted 
stream of people with their bundles and packs coming 
from every neighboring town and village to market. 
The bridge crossing the St. Paul's Eiver would be 
laden or occupied from one end to the other, for 
hours, but it proved equal to the purpose for which it 
was built. When the Mandingoes would arrive with 
their cattle, they would swim them across, but always 
experience difficulty in getting them up this side of the 
bank, on account of its steepness. No one seemed to 
think of remedying this inconvenience by sloping a 
pathway for the animals. 

The bridge is a simple structure of wicker-work. 
From each side of the river the ends of the bridge 
depend from a stout branch of an acacia-tree. The 
roadway is of plaited ratan, two feet wide, and worked 
up on both sides about four and a half feet, to 
prevent falling over. It is further steadied and sup- 
ported by a great number of strong and flexible twigs, 
which connect the bottom and the sides to every 
available limb of the trees growing on each bank. It 
is ascended by ladders ; its elevation is from twenty- 
three to twenty -five feet from the surface of the river, 
and spans a length of eighty -five feet. 

Ziggah Porrah Zue, the capital of the "Wy mar coun- 
try, is in latitude 8° 14' 45" ; longitude, 9° 31'. Its 
elevation is about 1650 feet above the level of the sea. 
The barometer standing from 28.08 to 28.12. Ther- 
mometer ranging from 67° to 92° from November 14th 
to November 80th. It is seated on the St. Paul's River. 
The large market is held between the river and the 
wall of the town. I am informed that this river runs 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 81 

]Sr. E. by E. into the Manclingo country, and tliat it 
takes its rise at the foot of some hills in that country. 
The Little Cape Mount Eiver takes a similar direction ; 
but in point of size, and in the number of its tributary 
creeks, it is superior to the St. Paul's. 

The highest point of the slope or declivity of land 
from Monrovia to Ziggah Porrah Zue is from 1600 to 
1700 feet above the level of the sea for a distance of 
latitude 116 miles. It is impossible that rivers thus sit- 
uated should be any thing else but the drains of a 
country, and their course a series of cataracts and falls. 

Every afternoon the king's body -guard performed 
their military evolutions. They had three war-drums, 
one of which was bound around with three tiers of 
human jaw-bones. A double-quick was beaten, to 
which they kept time for about half an hour, without 
tiring. They would then enter upon more violent 
motions, which were more of an athletic than a military 
kind. They were armed with English fasees, and heavy 
iron cutlasses of native manufacture. Their war-dress 
consisted of leopard-skins. 

The Bonsie country is densely populated. The 
difference between the Domar and Wymar Boozie 
is, that the latter marks his face from his temple to 
Ms chin with an indelible blue stain, while the former 
does not practice tattooing of any kind. This tribe 
extends from the south-west portion of the Pessy 
country to the western border of the Mandingo 
country. 

Dowilnyah now proposed to forward me on to 
Musardu under his protection— and a more power- 
ful protection could not be obtained. His own nephew 



82 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

was to accompanj^'me. "We left Ziggah Porrah Zue 
November 80th, 1868, taking a direction E.KE. The 
country was open and covered with tall grass, cane- 
brake, and wild rice. In an hour's walk we came to 
the town where the king formerly resided, Grubbewal- 
lah, meaning Sassa-wood tree, referring to a large old 
tree that grew in the middle of the town. 

We passed on, and halted at Pellezarrah — meaning 
several paths, because several paths crossed each other 
near the town. 

Several large cotton-trees grew at the junction of 
these roads. The features of the country are hilly, but 
the slopes are longer and more gentle. One large hill 
had a gradual slope of nearly two miles, while its oppo- 
site side came down in a perpendicular line. Trees now 
indeed began to be scarce, the country being covered with 
cane-brake, wild rice, and very tall palm-trees. Some 
trees of that short, stunted species which grow on our 
beach at the Cape, were seen sparsely scattered here and 
there. We traveled over a bard soil of red clay, pebbles, 
and iron ore. The tall grass and treeless slopes, plains, 
and hills led my Congoes to declare that I had missed th.e 
route, and walked into the Congo country ; and they 
commenced to thank me for returning them into their 
country Mesumbe. We halted at Pezarrah at six 
o'clock P.M. This town had suffered from fire in one 
part, and was being rebuilt. The whole direction tra- 
veled was E.K.E. Tuesday, 1st December, 1868, we 
started from Pellazarrah. After a walk of a quar- 
ter of an hour, the road led through a district which 
was a solid mass of iron ore. A short reddish, grass 
struggled for existence on this extensive plain of metal. 







in 

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o 



o 

'dg 

CO 
(D 

o 

P-4 



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CD 

CD 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 83 

The iron was so pure that the road leading through it 
was a polished metal pathway, smoothed over by the 
constant treading of travelers. It is said to be hardly 
treadable in the dries, it becomes so thoroughly heated. 

We occupied three and a half hours in passing over 
these hills and plains of metal. We afterward came 
to high grass, through which some elephants had just 
passed. The palm-trees entirely cease. We halted at 
Ballatah at three o'clock P.M. 

Wednesday, 2d December, 1868, at Ballatah. This 
is one of the most pleasantly situated of all the Boozie 
towns we had visited. The people insisted on our 
spending a day with them, that they might have some 
time to look at us. They killed a sheep, and furnished 
rice and other things in abundance. They then tried 
to prevail on me to undertake an elephant-hunt with 
them. Elephants are plentiful and large in this portion 
of the country, and every night they could be heard 
making a noise, while regaling themselves on the ten- 
der cotton-plants growing in the farms of the Ballatah 
people. 

Artemus Ward declares that "Every man has his 
fort." It is not mine to hunt elephants — especially to 
hunt elephants going in herds of ten or twelve, and 
that in an open country like Ballatah. I therefore de- 
clined the invitation to go on an elephant-hunt, telling 
my friends that I would postpone the pleasure to be 
derived from such amusements until I returned from 
Musardu. 

Ballatah is in latitude 8° 17' 51". Its approximate 
elevation is about two thousand feet above the level of 
the sea ; barometer standing 27.172. It is not so large 



84 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

as the other Boozie towns, but far better laid out. 
The houses are not crammed so closely together. It 
contains about twenty-five hundred people : it is seat- 
ed in a plain, and is commanded by very high and 
abrupt hills on its western side, while the land rolls off 
in gentle undulations toward the east. We were car- 
ried to some outlying villages north-west of Ballatah, 
situated at the foot of the same high hills that overlook 
that town. Here they were busy smelting iron. The 
furnaces were built of clay, and of a conical shape, from 
five and a half to six feet high, having clay pipes or 
vents close to the bottom, arranged in groups of two 
and three, for the purpose of draught. The charcoal and 
iron ore are put in at the top. At the bottom is an 
opening through which the slag and other impurities 
are withdrawn. 

Thursday, December 3d, 1868, we started from 
Ballatah. The direction was KE., and parallel to a 
range of very high hills, called the Yukkah hills. 
These hills are from seven hundred to one thousand 
feet high, and are variously composed of granite, iron 
ore, and a reddish clay which, from the steep slopes 
near the top, had shelved down in many places. The 
whole country, hill and plain, was covered with long 
grass and canebrake, interspersed with a short, dwarfish 
tree. The bark of this tree is rough and corru- 
gated, the trunk is a foot in circumference, eight or ten 
feet high ; and has an excessive branching top. The 
leaves small, and of an oval shape. Clumps of 
large trees occupied the sides and knolls of the hills. 

These hills are of all sizes, and run in every direc- 
tion. Toward the K and N.E., a line of hills towers 



A JOUEXEY TO iIUSAEDU.\ CO 

above fne rest, the ridge of Tvhicli makes a variety of 
outline against the sky. These hills are not so rug- 
gedly disposed as those in the Domar country. The 
slopes are gentler ; only near the summit they some- 
times change feature, taper off to a point, or go right up 
perpendicularly. To these hills^ and fastnesses the na- 
tives resort in time of war, carrying all their effects, 
their wives and children, to the most inaccessible parts. 
Judging from a hill which was shown me as being 
used for that purpose, some of them must be very safe 
retreats. 

Agriculture in this country must be a very simple 
and easy process. iS"o '"cutting farm,*" as we call it. by 
fellino' trees and cuttino' undero-owth. The soil, thouo-h 
covered with tall grass and canebrake, is one of the 
highest fertility. ""When the sun has sufficiently parched 
the tall grass, it is sometimes burnt off, sometimes cut 
down and hoed in for manure. Farms of hundreds of 
acres can be prepared in a very short time : and the 
natives, with their small hoes, can well afford to have 
the large plantations of rice, cotton, and millet, which 
we saw. 

Friday, ttth of December, 1868, we rested at Yukkah. 
This town stands at the foot of a range of high hills 
of the same name. It is the last Boozie town, and the 
nearest to the Mandingo country. These hills, called 
"Yukkah"' by the Boozies, and " Fomah'" by the Man- 
dingoes, take a definite direction IST.E. They are the 
highest range, and form a marked and acknowledged 
boundary between the Boozie and Mandingo territo- 
ries. At the foot of this range are seated a number of 
towns, Boozie and Mandingo. 



Ob A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

The town of Yukkah was overgrown with wild cane 
and plantain-trees. The houses were dilapidated, pre- 
senting a disagreeable contrast to the nsual neatness of 
the Boozie towns. The inhabitants are the most jll- 
favored of all the Boozies. This town is also notorious 
for the mischief and trouble it gives thorough farers ; 
and but for our coming under the protection of Dowil- 
nyah, it soon fell out what would have happened. "We 
had not been in the town an hour before we had a 
row with one of the principal men of the place. He 
requested me to fire my musket, which I did a number 
of times, sufficient, as I thought, to please every body ; 
but he insisted on several more rounds. I refused ; he 
then told me to go on to Musardu, but when I returned 
I would find that my way home would not lie through 
that town. I was, however, under too powerful a pro- 
tection to be disturbed. Dowilnyah was not to be trifled 
with. To take a head from a shoulder was mere pas- 
time with him. . 

Much, allowance, however, must be made for these 
African rulers. Tyrannical and bloodthirsty they 
sometimes appear ; but this character is artificial, and 
practiced in many instances to inspire terror and re- 
spect, without which they could not hold their authority 
a single hour. 

Beset by rivalships and conspiracies, they are forced, 
from the boisterous circumstances of their situation, to 
employ every means conservative of their authority 
and their lives. 

Saturday, 5th of December, we started from Yukkah. 
We had now crossed the Yukkah hills, and were fairly 
in the Mandingo country. Many of the plains of this 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 87 

section of the country are terraced, one above another. 
Amends is made for a simple vegetation, by the ever- 
varying forms of relief the country presents, the farther 
you advance into it. 

At three o'clock p.m., we were met on the road by 
several Mandingoes, who accompanied us to their town, 
JSTu-Somadu, or Mahommadu. The walls of this town 
are quadrilateral in shape, each side being a series of 
bastions, which at a distance looks like some old forti- 
fied front. The walls, however, are so thin that a four- 
pounder could demolish them in a very little time. 
■ . We entered the town, and were entertained in a very 
hospitable manner. A house was given to us, small 
indeed in its dimensions to what we had been accus- 
tomed to in the Boozie country, but convenient and com- 
fortable. Being wearied with the journey, I threw my- 
self into a hammock, and commenced surveying altera- 
tions and arrangements which a change in the charac- 
ter of the country had introduced. The house was a 
circular structure of clay, with a conical roof made en- 
tirely of large canebrake and long grass. In looking 
around the walls, our eyes rested on a saddle, stirrups, 
bridle, with leather leggings, and a tremendous tower 
gun. 

Sunday, the Oth of December, we attempted to pur- 
sue our journey ; but the chief refused to allow us to 
depart before he had demonstrated his good- will and 
hospitality. He killed a heifer, and cooked it with 
onions. We satisfied our appetites, and made him an 
appropriate present. We then departed ; arrived at 
Naalah late in the afternoon. In the morning, a 
trooper was at once dispatched to Musardu, to inform 



88 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

them that the Tibbabue (American) had come. In 
two hours he returned, telling me that the Musardu 
people requested that I would remain at Naalah until 
they had made preparations for my reception. I im- 
mediately sent them word that I had been so long com- 
ing to see their country that I would rather forego any 
public demonstration than be delayed any farther. I 
was then answered to come on ; they would gladly re- 
ceive me. 

A.ccompanied by several Mandingoes from ISTaalah 
and Mahommadu, we started for Musardu. Our inte- 
rest in the journey was enlivened by the novel features 
of the country. In passing through the Boozie coun- 
try, extensive views were frequently obstructed by a 
dense vegetation that hemmed in the sight on each side 
of a narrow foot-path. Here the peculiar features of 
the country are visible for miles. The towns and vil- 
lages seated in the plains, people on foot and people on 
horseback can be seen at a great distance, and have 
more the air of light, life, and activity, than many 
parts of the Boozie country, where the sombre gloom 
of immense forests conceals all such, things. The large 
town of Du Quirlelah lay on our right, in the bosom of 
some small hills. It lay on our right : but from our 
elevated position, it might well be said to lie under us. 
Going on, we descried a long, whitish border, raised a 
little above the height of a gentle slope. On drawing 
nearer, it proved to be the top of the south-western 
wall of Musardu. "We fired our muskets, and entered 
the town. We were led up a street, or narrow lane, 
that brought us into the square in which the mosque 
was situated. Here were gathered the king, Yomfee- 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 89 

clolla, and the principal men of tlie town, to receive 
us. My Mandingo friends from Mahommadu opened 
tlie civilities of introduction with, an elaborate speech ; 
stating where I had come from, and for what I had 
come ; the power, learning, and wealth of the Tibba- 
bues. One of mj friends, Barki, from Mahommadu, 
then engaged to swear for me, that I had come for 
no ill purpose whatever, but that I was moved entirely 
by an intelligent curiosity and friendly intercourse. 
Dowilnyah's messengers then spoke in flattering terms 
of my demeanor and liberality in their country, and 
the wishes of the king, in consequence, that I should be 
treated in every way befitting an illustrious stranger 
and his particular guest. I had never before been so 
complimented, and I became uneasy at the high impor- 
tance attached to the Tibbabue visit, fearing that great 
expectations in the way of dashes or presents might 
be disappointed. For my bundles, bulky and preten- 
tious in appearance, contained books, instruments, and 
clothes, more than the means upon which many hopes 
were then founding and growing. After the speeches 
were over, the king and his people gave me repeated 
welcomes, with the peculiar privilege of doing at Mu- 
sardu whatever I was accustomed to do at Monrovia, 
a large liberty, granted onlj^ to distinguished strangers. 
An infinite number of salaams and snapping of fingers 
then followed. I was soon disposed of, with luggage and 
carriers, in the king's court-3^arcl, with a house similar 
in structure and accommodation to the one at Mahom- 
madu. We had learned the art of domiciling ourselves 
in these towns, and in fifteen minutes every thing w^ore 
the appearance of our having lived there for years. A 



90 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDIT. 

number of Mandingo girls came to sing and dance for 
■QS, and we wasted some powder by way of returning 
the compliment. 

As soon as night came on, we retired to rest ; but our 
slumbers were disturbed by a harper, who, in a tremu- 
lous minor key, improvised that since Musardu had 
been founded such a stranger had never visited it 
The harp itself was a huge gourd, and a most unmusi- 
cal "shell" it proved to be. It had three strings, the 
thrummings of which disquieted me on two accounts. 
First, the noise, intrinsically disagreeable. Secondly, 
the expectations which that noise might be raising, as 
the bard in his noctiiriie declared my many gracious 
qualities, my courage, my wealth, and my liberality ; 
upon the last two he dwelt with loud and repeated effort. 

King Yomfeedolla in appearance has a mild, gentle 
countenance. His features would please those who are 
fond of a straight nose, broad forehead, thin lips, large 
and intelligent eyes, and an oval chin. Like all the 
Mandingoes, his skin is a smooth, glossy black. In 
stature he is rather below the general towering height 
of this tribe. He does not possess the fiery energy of, 
his royal Boozie brother, Dowilnyah, who, though 
many years his senior, far excels him in that respect. 

In all councils Yomfeedolla seems to be entirely a 
listener, and to be directed and influenced by the older 
members of the royal family. He is said to be a great 
warrior ; but the evidences around Musardu prove that 
if he is, he must belong to the unfortunate class of that 
profession. 

The usual apparel or dress of the Mandingoes con- 
sists of four pieces — two pieces as a shirt and vest, an 



A JOUEXEY TO MUSARDU. 91 

one large coat or toga worn over all ; one pair of 
Turkish-shaped trowsers coming a little below the 
knees : sandals for the feet, which are sometimes bean- 
tifully worked ; and a three-cornered cap for the head. 
These articles, made and worn as a Mandingo only can 
make and wear them, leave nothing to be desired, 
either as to taste and utility. This is said so far as the 
men are concerned. But I must deplore a fashion ob- 
served by the women, in wrapping up their faces and 
bodies in a manner truly ungraceful, and unhealthy, 
too. 

Musardu is an exceedingly healthy place ; there was 
not one prostrate, sickly person in the town. There 
is, however, a disease which sometimes attacks indivi- 
duals in a peculiar way ; it is an affection of the throat, 
causing a protuberance almost similar to what is called 
the "king's evil." I inquired the cause, and they 
imputed it to something that impregnates the water 
during the height of the dry season, being the time 
when it mostly seizes persons. 

The atmosphere of Musardu is very dr\^, and had a 
very favorable effect upon my watches, which were 
declared at Monrovia to be out of order ; but as soon as 
I reached Musardu, every one of them began to tick 
away in a clear and ringing manner. 

Musardu, the capital of the Western Mandingoes, is 
in latitude 8° 27' 11" K, loDgitude 8° 2-1' 80" W. ; it 
is elevated two thousand feet above the level of the sea, 
and is situated amid gentle hills and slopes. North 
and north-east two very high hills tower above the rest 
several hundred fest. The population is between seven 
and eight thousand, but the many villages and hamlets 



92 . A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

increase it to a greater proportion. In the days of its 
prosperity, and before it had suffered from the damag- 
ing effects of war, it had occupied a larger space, and 
was not surrounded by any wall. Though it has lost 
its former importance, Musardu is still considered as the 
capital' of the Western Mandingoes, and its name is 
never mentioned but in terms of patriotism and respect. 
I often heard the old men of the town regret its past 
power and wealth. They told me that what I then 
saw of Musardu was only the ruins of a former pros- 
perity. The town is laid off irregularly, with very 
narrow and sometimes winding lanes or streets. These 
lanes or streets cross each other in such a way as to 
give access to any part of the town. The houses are 
built facing the lanes, and the rear space is used as a 
yard for horses and cattle. In the south-western part 
of the town is the mosque. The walls having been 
injured by the weather, they had commenced to repair 
it. It is a quadrilateral building, surrounded by an 
oval-shaped wall, which is carried up eight feet, and 
upon which rest the rafters of a large [conical thatch- 
roof The interior space is thirty-two feet long and 
twenty-two feet wide, and nine feet high. It is laid off 
in four compartments, by three intermediate walls run- 
ning the length of the building. These separate spaces 
communicate with each other by three doors or open- 
ings in each intermediate wall. I do not know the 
purpose of the divisions, unless it is to grade the faith- 
ful. It can scarcely accommodate more than one hun- 
dred and twenty 'persons, and must therefore be devoted 
to the most pious, or the leaders or teachers of Islam. 
On Monday, the 14th of December, 1868, the King 



A JOUEXEY TO MUSAEDU. 93 

Yomfeedolla held a military demonstratioD. He had 
summoned his infantry and cavalry from the nearest 
towns of Billelah, Yokkadn, Xaalah, and Mahommadu. 
The exercises commenced about two o'clock p.:m., in 
the large square of the town. The spectators and mu- 
sicians had already assembled. All at once a trooper 
dashed past at full speed, as if he was reconnoitring 
the enemy. Several others followed, dispersing in 
different directions. The position of the enemy seem- 
ing to be determined, they soon returned. The trum- 
pet then sounded, and a grand cavalry charge took place. 
Riding up in line, with musket in hand, they would 
deliver their fire, and canter off" to the right and left, 
in order to allow the rear lines to do the same. As 
soon as the firing was over, they slung their muskets, 
and, rising in the saddle, drew their long knives in one 
hand and their crooked swords in the other; the horse, 
now urged to a headlong gallop by the voice, carries 
his rider, standing in the stirrups, with furious velocity 
into the heat of the battle. Such are the evolutions of 
the Mandingo cavalry. Their equipment is quite com- 
plete. They use saddles and bridles, and a peculiar and 
powerful bit ; short stirrups ; leather leggings, to which 
iron spurs are attached. The cavalry from all the 
towns, according to various reports, ought to amount 
to fifteen hundred. 

In their o^dcu country, where the action of cavalry 
is greatly facilitated by the long, gentle slopes, and 
wide, treeless plains, they would be no mean enemy. 
They often dismount, in order to act on foot. Each 
horse has a boy attendant to take care of him while 
his master is thus engaged. In real action, I have 



94: A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 

been informed, the little boys of the defeated party 
often suffer the penalty of their participation. Yet 
these dangers do not deter the little fellows from going ; 
for they are frequently able to ride off tbe field as soon 
as any symptoms of defeat are perceived. 

The'king seems to act for the most part with tlie in- 
fantry, for he rode in front and led them on. They 
came in deep array, and with great clamor, but with- 
out organization, being directed solely by a flag or 
ensign of blue cloth. I was sorry that I had no flag 
of ours to present them. 

After tbeir exercises were over, they requested us to 
fire our muskets ; upon which we delivered regular 
volleys with bayonets fixed, both to their astonishment 
and delight, caused by the quickness with which, we 
loaded our pieces, our certainty of fire — unlike their 
fusees, which were continually snapping — and the 
deeper report of our guns. As soon as all the exer- 
cises were finished, the king then distributed the pre- 
sents I had given him to the chiefs of the several mili- 
tary divisions. 

Tuesday, the 15t]i of December, 1868. My Man- 
dingo friends began to press me to trade with them. 
I informed them that I had nothing to trade with; 
that my gifts to the king and the principal men of the 
town had exhausted my means so closely as to scarcely 
leave me sufficient to enable me to return home. No- 
thing could convince them that I had not pieces of 
handkerchiefs and calicoes concealed in my bundles. 
They tried every method to induce me to trade; they 
carried me to their houses and would get out their 
small leathern bags ; these bags^contained from ten to 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 95 

fifteen large twisted gold rings, ("sannue.") They 
then offered me horses, and finally concluded by offer- 
ing to sell me some pretty female slaves. I informed 
them that the Tibbabues did not keep slaves ; that I 
had not come to trade, but merely to visit their coun- 
try ; that upon my return home I would persuade 
my people to come and trade with them. At the pros- 
pect of a number of Tibbabues coming to their coun- 
try to trade, they were exceedingly satisfied. 

From trade we passed to war and politics, and 
having satisfied all their inquiries in these two parti- 
cular points with respect to the Tibbabues, they made 
me acquainted with some of their wars and feuds. 
They had a special cause of grievance against a certain 
Mandingo chief whose name was Ibrahima, or Blamer 
Sissa, and who lived north-east, and three days' walk 
from Musardu, at a large town called Madina. 

It appears that Blamer Sissa came from Madina to 
visit his uncle, Amalah, who was then residing at 
Musardu, and that he was treated with great civility 
and distinction by the Musardu people ; that being a 
powerful young prince, they solicited his aid against 
some Kaffres, or unbelievers, living over the eastern 
hills ; that in compliance with their solicitation he 
went back to Madina, and soon returned to Musardu, 
bringing with him his cavalry and infantry, a nume- 
rous and formidable mass, who, in the end, came nigh 
doing their friends at Musardu as much evil as they 
had done the Kaffres, whom they had mutually agreed 
to plunder. 

Blamer Sissa strijDped Musardu of every thing valu- 



Vb A JOURNEF TO MUSARDU. 

able, and even carried off nearly all the pretty young 
women of tliat town. 

On Thursday, the 16th of December, 1868, at seven 
o'clock P.M., Chancellor came running to my house to 
inform me that several suspicious persons, with their 
horses or jackasses, were lurking about the north-west- 
ern side of the town ; that they had sought admit- 
tance, but it had been refused them ; that they had re- 
ported themselves traders, but the town people were 
on the alert, believing them to be Blamer Sissa's spies, 
who were only skulking around in order to gain all 
the intelligence they could, and carry it to their friends, 
who were supposed to be in strong force behind the 
north-eastern hills. Next morning, Friday, the 17th 
of December, the strange people were indeed seen on 
a hill north-west of the town, and cold must have 
been the sleep they had of it the previous night, for 
the thermometer stood at 52° at four a.m. A council 
was held to decide how to act. Some proposed to send 
the young men out to kill them. Afterward it was 
more wisely determined to go out and order them to 
take their traffic and depart with it at once. 

We accordingly went out, and after the usual saluta- 
tions, they were given plainly to understand that neither 
they nor their trade could enter Musardu, and that they 
must depart without delay. But our strange merchants 
were not to be frightened off in that manner. They 
insisted that they had come for no evil purpose what- 
ever, but simply to prosecute their trade. The con- 
ferences were prolonged until midday. While the 
conversation was going on, I had an opportunity to 
survey the suspicious group of new-comers. It con- 



A JOURNEY TO MUSAEDU. 97 

sisted of two sturdy little jackasses, with enormous 
packs, containing what looked like, and afterward 
proved to be French blue baft, and -&ve men. The 
one who acted as guide and interpreter was one of 
Blamer Sissa's people, and he alone served to confirm 
our suspicions. The other four were tall, black, good- 
featured people. One of them had his face and head 
bound up with a piece of white cotton, after the pecu- 
liar manner of some of the Arabs of the desert. They 
were all Mohammedans. I learned that they had come 
from the Senegal, had been to Futtah, passed through 
Kanghkah, and had obtained this guide from Madina, 
to show them to Musardu. I began to be interested in 
them. The Musardu people, however, remained deaf 
to every argument, and the Senegal merchants were 
compelled to pack their bundles on their asses, and go. 
E"ay, the town people, to assure themselves of their 
going, followed them some distance. But the sight of 
such large bundles in such a time of need and self-in- 
terest, had sown the seeds of discord ; and there was 
much contention now among the Musardu people them- 
selves. Some were for allowing the merchants to 
enter the town. Others opposed it, alleging that such 
were always the artifices of Blamer Sissa when he 
wished to take a strong town ; that he always sent 
some of his people ahead, who, under pretext of wish- 
ing to trade, introduced themselves into the town in 
order to open the gates at night to his forces. The 
contention grew so warm that they even came to 
blows. 

On Saturday, the 19th of December, about nine 
o'clock A.M., news came to the town that the merchants 



98 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU 

had returned. We went out and found it really so ; and 
when the order was repeated to them to go away, they 
absolutely refused, declaring that they had come to 
trade; that having left neither mother nor wife behind, 
the Musardu people might kill them if they wished to 
do so. Their firmness overcame the first determination 
of the Musardu people, who, after nearly having an- 
other quarrel among themselves, gave the merchants 
leave to trade outside of the town — a permission 
with which our Senegal friends seemed to be quite 
satisfied. It was difiicult at the first to make out who 
our merchants were No one could understand their 
language except the Mandingo interpreter from Ma- 
dina, and it was this man who caused them to be se- 
riously suspected, for he was one of Blamer Sissa's 
soldiers. These poor merchants, therefore, might have 
been subserving Blamer Sissa's purposes, without the 
least knowledge of it themselves. It was solely their 
interpreter that marked them as suspected persons. 

On Monday, the 21st of December, our Musardu 
friends, after all their blustering determination against 
the merchants, admitted them into the town. Interest 
and avarice overcame all their patriotism and caution. 
The two jackass-loads of goods, not unlike the Trojan 
horse, were dragged into the town, and if Blamer Sissa 
had any designs on Musardu, they were accomplished. . 

Both in policy and energy Blamer Sissa seemed su- 
perior to the Musardu people ; for in addition to the 
trouble he had already given them, and even the re- 
cent threats he had made, he knew how to introduce 
his own people in the town, who could give any 
intelligence with respect to Musardu he might desire. 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. \)\) 

He is not the first prince wlio has taken a city by 
means of a jackass-load of merchandise. The Musardu 
people sent a thundering message of defiance and in- 
sult to Blamer Sissa, making the largest nse of me to 
back it up. They sent him word that they were not 
at all dependent on him for trade or any thing else ; 
that the Tibbabues were abont to open trade with 
them, and would be their Mends in peace and war ; 
that even then a Tibbabue was negotiating that parti- 
cular business in Musardu. They then took pains to 
exhibit the arms and means with which the destruction 
of Madina might sooner or later be accomplished. My 
muskets with their bayonets, my revolvers, aud my 
person, were severally shown as designed for that espe- 
cial object. 

I was^ purposely questioned aloud as to the military 
resources of the Tibbabues : the little guns that fired 
any number of times without loading, and the big guns 
that burnt up cities at the distance of miles. I gave 
such answers as I hope will make Blamer Sissa less 
troublesome to Musardu for the future. 

It might be thought impolitic that I did not refrain 
from expressing myself as being in either party's favor. 
In this part of Africa, if hostilities are lukewarm, neu- 
trality is possible ; but where it burns with the flame 
of recent and bitter injuries, you are absorbed by either 
one side or the other, or torn in pieces by both. 

The Musardu people are unfortunately situated. On 
the north they expect war with Blamer Sissa, and on 
the east hostilities have never ceased; the west and 
south-west are still open to them. It is the latter direc- 
tion that opens itself to our enterprise, and promises 



100 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

mucTi to our commercial prosperity. The chief articles 
of trade are gold, bullocks, hides, horses, and country 
cloths of every variety of dye and texture. Gold is 
worn extravagantly by the Man dingo ladies of Mu- 
sardu. - Their earrings are so large and weighty as to 
require a narrow piece of leather to brace them up to 
their head-bands, so that the part of the ring in the 
ear may not make an unseemly hole, as sometimes 
happens when this necessary support is neglected. 
Gold is certainly abundant, and would form a lucrative 
trade between Musardu and Liberia. I gave twelve 
sheets of writing-paper (kahtahsee) and four yards of 
calico for a large gold twist ring. Had I came pur- 
posely to trade, and had gone through the usual prac- 
tice of "jewing down," I could have purchased it for 
less. These rings are perfectly pure, the natives never 
mixing any kind of alloy in the manufacturing of them. 
Many of my friends wondered at my maKing presents . 
of watches, music-boxes, and calicoes when the articles 
might have been exchanged for gold or slaves ; but as 
I was determined that the money should be religiously 
appropriated to the purpose for which it was sent out, 
I steadily refused every proffer, excepting such few 
things as I could conveniently bring back as samples 
of the production and industry of the country. 

To carry on trade safely, free from the risks and 
interruptions incident to a country peopled by bar- 
barians and semi-barbarians, and divided into so many 
jarring interests, it would be necessary to establish four 
trading forts — two in the Boozie and Barline countries, 
which, would purchase country cloths, raw cotton, cam- 
wood, rjpe, palm-oil, etc. ; and two in the Mandingo coun- 



A JOUEXEY TO AIUSAEDU. 101 

try. where go'cL bullocks, country cloths, and horses could 
be purchased at such rates as would amply reEQunerate 
for all the trouble, expense, and consumption of time 
necessary in such traffic. The individuals living in the 
forts would be abundantly supplied with food, as rice 
is produced in surplus cj_uantities in the Boozie and 
Barline countries. Even the expense of clothing would 
be triflino". if thev would use the cloth of the countrv. 
The natives declare that they would be glad to have 
such establishments among them. These forts would 
also second and strengthen any missionary effort that 
might be made out there ; indeed, the two establish- 
ments could be made to work admirably together. 
The support, protection, and moral and material influ- 
ence which would be exerted in the respective opera- 
tions of each, would insure permanence and success. 
V^e would do well to commence the use of jackasses ; 
indeed, it would be indispensable for the portage or 
transportation of luggage. The Senegal traders at 
]VIusardu carried very large packs of blue cotton on 
their two sturdy little animals. Horses and bullocks 
would form no unimportant part of the trade. Ma- 
hommadu is a regular beef-market. 

The auriferous or gold district of this part of Man- 
ding is said to be principally at Buley. Upon my first 
inquiry. I was told that Buley was a week's journey 
eastward ; but upon my continuing to prosecute my 
inquiries respecting that country. Buley was imme- 
diately remoA-ed one week's walk further, making it 
two weeks" walk, and through hostile and dangerous 
disti'icts, the people of which, as my Musarda friends 
informed me, would exact toll from me for passing 



102 A JOURNEY TO MUSAKBU. 

through their countr}^ Every difficulty was conjured 
up that was conceived to be sufficient to extinguish all 
interest for further inquiry, or to intimidate my going 
in that direction. 

However, my Mandingo cousins have no doubt mis- 
represented the whole matter ; for gold not only exists 
at Buley, but right there in their own country — other- 
wise I do not think it could be so plentiful among 
themselves, since they have little or no communication 
with the east. 

At Buley, it is found mixed in fine grains with the 
superficial deposit. No one is allowed to sweep or 
pick up any thing in another's yard. The gold is 
separated by fanning and washing; it is then smelted 
and twisted, and ready for sale or use. They show, 
some skill and taste in the preparation of these rings, 
and they are really worth their weight in gold. Our 
friends are sometimes equally skillful in preparing coun- 
terfeits, as my nitric acid had several occasions to prove. 
Impositions of this kind are generally punished by heavy 
fines. 

In going to Buley, you pass successively Bendalah — 
where a very fine species of country cloth is made, of 
striped figure, and usually worn by the women — -Tan- 
galah, Tatah, and Grehway. Now, if these towns are 
situated from each other at the usual distance of Afri- 
cans — namely, a day's walk — Buley is but four days' 
walk east from Musardu, which I take to be the fact, 
despite the industry of my friends to prove to the con- 
trary. Unlike Musardu, it is a v/ooded country. This 
fact may give us some idea of the extent of those tree- 
less hills and plains eastward. They are said to extend 



A JOUPvXEY TO MUSARDU. 103 

further north than in any other direction, where, indeed, 
cow-dung is used for fuel. The population of Buley 
is' Mandingo. Gold is also obtained north of Blamer 
Sissa's town, at Wasalah. 

My friends now tried again to provoke me to trade, 
offering the same articles they had offered before — gold, 
horses, and female slaves. Indeed, this is all the Man- 
dingoes of Musardu had to offer by way of trade. Not 
a bullock or a country cloth was to be seen, though 
these things are notoriously the articles of merchandise 
belonging to Musardu. Every thing liable to be seized 
in war, from its being too bulky to be quickly removed 
or concealed, sad experience has taught them to keep 
out of reach, in some friendly Boozie town in the rear 
of the Yukkah hills; while nothing but the war-horse, 
and articles easy to be hid or carried off, are kept at 
Musardu. At every house can be seen muskets, cut- 
lasses, powder-horns, war-belts, and war-coats, a power- 
ful large bow, and four or five large quivers filled with 
poisoned arrows. I have seen them prepare the poi- 
son with which the points of the arrows are smeared 
over. It is a vegetable poison, consisting of one bul- 
bous root twice as large as an onion, and two different 
kinds of small vines. It is boiled in a pot to a thick 
or gummy consistence, the color of which is black. It 
is said to be so fatal that if it wounds so much as the 
tip end of the fingers, it is certain death. The preparers 
of this fearful means of savage warfare but too clearly 
explained to me its effects before death completely en- 
sues : the bleedino' at the nose and ears ; its nauseous 
attack on the stomach, and consequent spitting; the 
final despair of the individual in lying down, with his 



104 A JOURNEY TO MUSAKDU. 

eyes set in a vacant death-stare — all of which was imi- 
tated with a terrible fidelity to the truth, and as one 
of the most horrible means of barbarous warfare. 

This part of Mandingo is the country of the horse. 
There are two sizes : the large horse, used for show and 
parade, and the small horse, used for war. The latter 
is a hardy, strong little animal, capable, in his country, 
of bearing great fatigue. In battle, I am informed, he 
kicks and bites in a furious manner, and that when his 
master makes a capture of a fine young lady, he will- 
ingly receives the additional burden, and gallops off 
faster than ever. These horses are certainly well treated 
and cared for ; and if Musardu is not characteristic for 
cleanliness, it is because the horse and his master equally 
occupy and almost equally litter up that capital. 

I tried my best to obtain some data by which an ap- 
proximate notion might be formed of the age of the 
city ; but in matters of chronology our friends have 
been sadly careless. None of them could give the least 
intelligent hint. They said that the grandfather of the 
oldest man in the town declared that the town was 
there when he was born, and that all the other towns 
sprang from this one. Its antiquity is an undoubted 
matter among themselves. I was shown their large 
market-place outside of the town, a few hundred 3^ards 
from the south-western gate. From the space it occu- 
pied, it would easily have contained eight or ten thou- 
sand people. The respective places where each com- 
modity was exhibited for sale was pointed out : country 
cloths, cattle, gold, (dust and manufactured,) slaves, 
grain, salt, of which there were two kinds — the slab or 
rock-salt, which came on camels from the north-east, 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 105 

and our fine salt, gotten from the coast ; ostricli feathers ; 
leather, in the beautiful and soft tanning of which the 
Mandingoes are particularly expert ; ivory, cotton, to- 
bacco, and an infinite variety of domestic articles were 
all named, and the different places where they were 
sold designated. 

But war has abolished every sign of this commercial 
activity and life, and has introduced in its stead a barren 
space filled with weeds, grass, and the broken skulls 
and skeletons of enemies — a desperate battle having 
been fought there between the Musardu people, aided 
by Blamer Sissa, and the eastern Mandingoes. 

The soil of the hills of Musardu is composed of red- 
dish clay and sand, with boulders of iron ore intermixed. 
On the north-eastern side of the town are some large 
masses of black and gray granite. The plains are a 
whitish clay, and the very soil for a plow, being free 
from almost every obstruction. The light tillage of 
the natives never goes more than four or five inches, 
with their little short-handled hoes. 

About February or March, and sometimes sooner, 
the high grass and wild cane are cut down, to rot and 
manure the soil. ITear the planting season, these vege- 
table fertilizers are turned in with the hoe ; and from 
the crops of rice, of which there are three kinds, pota- 
toes, ground-nuts, onions, peas and beans, large gourds, 
corn, pumpkins, etc., it must answer abundantly the 
purposes of agriculture. Tobacco is grown in plots, 
wherever a stream of water offers itself for frequent 
irrigation. The rubbish and ashes of the town form 
excellent beds for this plant. They are generally laid 
out with great care, and watered three times a day. 
5* 



106 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

The Mandingoes are the great tobacco-raisers and snuff- 
makers of the country. They supply both themselves 
and tbe Boozies. 

Musardu is singularly free from grasshoppers, rats, 
and mice, owing to the number of hawks that crowd 
the limbs of a solitary tree that may be standing here 
and there. Want of trees compels them to perch them- 
selves on rocks, and when these are all occupied, they 
may be seen to cover the ground in dark patches. 
There are also large birds that particularly belong to 
the grassy plains of Musardu. They go in flocks of 
eight or twelve. In size, they are as large as American 
geese, and, on account of their weight, do not fly very 
high, nor do they make long passages at a time. When 
they alight on the ground, they are enabled, by the 
length of their necks, to discover you before you can get 
within gunshot of them. Their hearing, however, is not 
very acute ; for we have often crept up the brow of the 
hill, and come upon them suddenly. They are a ver}^ 
sagacious and shy bird ; and though I and my Congoes 
tried our marksmanship many times, we were entirely 
unable to procure one of them. The Mandingoes are 
scarcely ever able to kill them. Their color is white, 
with a black band across their back and wings ; and 
when flying, their leader never ceases to make a cawing 
noise. They are very gawky in their movements when 
walking on the ground, caused by their long necks, 
giving their heads a deliberative nod with every step 
they take. 

The Mandingoes are very attentive to their farming 
interests. They are, however, more given to trade 
than to manual labor. The leading vice of a Mandingo 



A JOUEXEY TO MUSARDU. 10 i 

is avarice, which., by however ranch it is stimulated, the 
present state of the country affords him but little means 
to gratifv. IN'othing can be accumulated among them- 
selves that war does not instantly dissipate. Never- 
theless, they are quick and intelligent, easy to be 
managed by persuasion, and they offer to Liberia a 
more speedy prospect of assimilation and union than 
any other tribe with which I am acquainted. A strong 
moral advantage is already gained, from their being a 
reading and writing people, practicing a communication 
of ideas and an interchange of thought by means of the 
Arabic. They have a natural reverence for learning 
and mental superiority, and they never fail to respect 
it. whether it accords with their belief or not. Xo 
rudeness, no indecent and wrangling intolerance, was 
ever shown me during my stay among them. Xo differ- 
ence of religion ever made them diminish the respect, 
attention, and hospitality which they conceived were 
due me. One of my Congo carriers is of the Baptist 
persuasion, and he used to make himself heard every 
morning, even to my own annoyance, by loud orisons. 
Still, our Mohammedan Mandingoes said nothing. It 
was respected as a prayer, and it was known to be a 
Christian prayer. 

On the 19th of December, I visited Billelah Kaifal, 
Kandah's native town. In size it is nearly as large as 
Musardu. The houses are in a better condition ; but 
in all other respects it resembles the parent city — the 
narrow lanes, horse stables, gardens, etc. The town 
seemed densely populated, at least with children. 

The next day we started from Billelah for our home, 
Musardu, visiting on our way another town, Yockkadu. 



108 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

This town is about a quarter of the size of Musardu, 
and similar in its arrangements, customs, and habits. 
The chief of this town, Yawfulla, proved to be very 
hospitable. 

On Sunday, the 21st of December, my Boozie atten- 
dants grew impatient to return home, and even prepared 
to leave me. I gave them full liberty to go if they 
wished, since I did not intend to make the least move 
until I had finished my business. The sky had been so 
hazy as to prevent my taking any observations. Tlae 
fine dust of the Harmattans, together with the vast 
volumes of smoke and cinders from the grassy hills and 
plains that were burning, rendered it a difficult matter 
to take observations. This was the cause of my delay- 
ing to return, and the consequent dissatisfaction of my 
Boozies, a people who are not willing to be kept from 
their homes any length of time. Chancellor, however, 
was enabled to appease their impatience by three yards 
of calico. 

Having now exhausted the time, as well as almost 
all the means which had been assigned to carry out 
this expedition, I began to think of returning home ; 
yet I must confess there was nothing more contrary to 
my wishes. Had it not been that family responsibilities 
demanded my return home, I should have still, with 
or without means, prosecuted my journey eastward — 
a direction which I have always had the presentiment 
contains the prosperity and welfare of Liberia. 

On Friday, the 25th of December, at eight A.M., we 
bade farewell to Musardu, and arrived at Mahommadu at 
six P.M. Here we passed several days, in order to take 



A JOUEXET TO MUSAEDU. 109 

observations and to see the market. This market is 
held every TVednesday, outside of the eastern wall. 

On Wednesday, the 30th, this market took pLace. It 
contained three hundred head of cattle, which were 
offered at three or four dollars a head in our money. 
The usual articles of rice, onions, palm-oil, cotton, coun- 
try cloths, tobacco, and iron were present. There were 
a number of slaves for sale, especially children. A 
pretty little Mandingo girl, about nine years of age, 
was sent to my house with one of my boys, in order 
that I might purchase her. She cost 9000 kolu, or 
about 815 in our money. I was curious to know how 
she became a slave, as !Mandingoes are seldom ever 
enslaved. I declined to buy her, on the ground that 
Tibbabues never held slaves. The child herself seemed 
to be disappointed ; for she showed that she preferred 
falling into my hands in preference to her own people. 
The Mandingoes are harsher with their slaves than the 
Boozies. Among the Boozies it is difiicult to distin- 
guish the slaves by any mark of dress or usage ; but 
the Mandingoes, though not excessively cruel, have 
drawn the lines of difference in so strong a manner 
that you can not fail to perceive them. 

A gTcat many cattle remained unsold. The season 
of the dries is very severe on them, and they some- 
times die from overdriving. Several died the next 
day after the market was over. They are the large, 
reddish, long-horned cattle, which we usuallv buy 
from the interior. The highlands, from which they 
come, explains why they do not thrive so well as the 
black, short-horned, and sturdy cattle of the coast, 
known among us as the " leeward cattle." 



110 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

It was at this town that I first experienced the hos- 
pitality of these people in their own country. Oar 
Mandingoes are Mohammedans ; but they have an in- 
vincible partiality for Tibbabues, who are known to 
be Christians, and the people of the book. It is also 
well known that there is some difference in the creeds 
or beliefs ; yet the unbelieving Tibbabue is sure to be 
housed, fed, and befriended in a manner that is not 
always practiced among the faithful themselves. 

While they were repairing the wall of Mahommadu, 
I was requested to carry some of the mortar and place 
it in the wall, that it might be said that " a Tibbabue 
helped to build these walls." I contributed all I could 
to make them impregnable. 

During our stay there, we were also taken to their 
foundry, where they were busily engaged in preparing 
iron for the market. The pieces of pure iron taken 
from the furnaces are again heated ; they are then re- 
duced to a long triangular shape by pounding them 
with large, heavy stones — a process simple and laborious 
enough, and a work which is entirely left for the slaves. 

Blacksmithing, such as the making of stirrups, bits, 
spurs, etc., is done by the Mandingoes themselves, as 
being a mechanical art too noble to be performed by 
slaves. 

On Thursday, the 81st of December, we left Mahom- 
madu, and reached Yukkah at half-past four o'clock 
P.M. We were now among the Boozies again. The 
Yukkah hills run K E.^ and S.W. The towns of Ma- 
hommadu and Yukkah stand at the very foot of the 
south-eastern slope. I am informed that many other 
Mandinsfo and Boozie towns are situated on the same 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. Ill 

side of this range. At Maliommadu, the plain, in a 
south-east direction, is only interrupted by swells and 
rolling hills, rising and running in every direction, and 
marked by no particular feature, except the reddish 
color of the soil, and their summits ridged with the 
dwarfish prairie tree before mentioned. The plains are 
white clay, mixed with beds of iron ore. At Mahom- 
madu, the south-east slope strikes the plain at a great 
angle ; but at Yukkah, it rests upon a series of small 
table-lands that extend out a half-mile before they 
finally come down into the plains. The vast spaces of 
grass and reddish soil are relieved by patches of dense 
vegetation, marking the gullies and ravines. Heavy 
blocks of granite are set in the sides of the Yukkah 
hills, awaiting only to be loosened by the rains to roll 
from their places to the bottom. At night, the whole 
country seems on fire, from the burning of the gTass. 

On January 1st, 1869, we left Yukkah, and reached 
Ballatah at two p.m. On the road, we passed several 
streams of water, flowing over granite beds, with a 
temperature of 58° to 60°, Fahrenheit. We had also 
passed over three plains, rising one above another, in 
which lines of trees traced off curious plots and divi- 
sions, as if they were purposely laid out for farming. 
The spaces were filled in with green grass and scatter- 
ing clumps of trees. 

January 2d. From Ballatah, we traveled to the vil- 
lage of Grazzahbue. 

January 3d, 1869. From Grazzahbue, we reached 
Gubbewallah, Dowilnyah's residence. The king was 
still at Ziggah Porrah Zue; but in three days he re- 
turned to his own town. Here, though anxious to 



112 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

hasten home, I was obliged to spend some time ; since 
it is contrary to politeness to hurry away from the 
town of a great chief without having resided with him 
two or three weeks. All my friends who had arrived 
from Ziggah. Porrah Zue were delighted to see me, and 
they began to grow solicitous about my returning to 
their country again. Promises of all kinds were made 
if I would return ; promises of a very peculiar kind 
were made by the king if I would only return. 

The ladies of Wymar seemed no less anxious respect- 
ing me ; and they frequently asked me why, since I 
possessed the means of making so many presents, I 
did not have a number of women to sing and clap 
hands and proclaim my importance, after the fashion 
of their great men. To which I replied that such was 
not the custom of "Weegees," or Americans. They 
were, ho\vever, nnwilling that I should go -through 
their country " nnhonored and unsung ;" they therefore 
proposed to compliment me with this custom, and 
merrily fell to clapping and singing ; then raising their 
right hands to the sky, rent the air with their acclama- 
tions of praise and flattery. 

On Monday, the 25th of January, we took leave of King 
Dowilnyah. The king presented us with several large 
country cloths, and a very large and heavy ivory. 
He had also sent for a horse ; but we declined receiving 
the presents, as we had no one to carry them. He would 
have furnished us carriers, had it not been that they 
would have to pass through the Domars, with whom 
they were not on friendly terms. 

About four o'clock p.m., we reached Boe. Here we 
spent a day to rest. On Wednesday, the 27th Janu- 



A JOUENEY TO MUSAEDU. 113 

aiy, at four o'clock p.m., we came to Nubbewah's town. 
King ISTubbewah was not at home when we arrived; 
but late in tbe afternoon this sick and feeble old man 
came stalking into the town, followed by his head war- 
rior, and a number of young men, all armed. 

In the evening they held a council, and ISTubbewab 
himself delivered a speecli with a violence of gesture 
and voice that little corresponded with the languid, 
sickly frame from w^hich it came. Mischief was brew- 
ing ; but where or on whom it would first light, no one 
of our party could conjecture. We only hoped that it 
would keep to its first purposes, and not fall on us. 

It was a very clear moonlight. About twelve o'clock, 
Chancellor, who was generally very vigilant whenever 
there happened to be an unusual stir among the na- 
tives, detected one of the young men, with his cutlass 
gleaming in the moonlight, stealthily lifting up our 
door-mat. He was suddenl^^ questioned as to what he 
wanted, wkicli threw him into such confusion that he 
was only able to stammer out something about fire, and 
quickly withdrew. Several persons were tken seen pass- 
ing and repassing in the king's court-yard. We imme- 
diately concluded that such movements boded no good 
to us. We aroused our party, and prepared for a gene- 
ral onslaught, which we every moment expected ; such 
being the usual method of these people's attacks. 
Nubbewah's town contains three thousand people, 
men, women, and children. The houses are crowded 
together. The king's own department is shut off from 
the rest of the town by high fences, and strongly 
guarded with a number of large Mandingo dogs. It 
is every way so situated that a petty wickedness can be 



114 A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 

committed covertly and conveniently enoughj and no- 
body be tlie wiser. 

All the houses are bamboo, and would burn like tin- 
der. I therefore instructed my people that, should 
Nubbewah attack us, we must immediately set fire to 
the house we were in, and discharge our muskets into 
those who came at us first ; that amid the hubbub of 
fire, smoke, and fighting, our chances for escape would 
be as good as any one else's ; that we must make for 
the gate nearest to our house, and march all night for 
Bokkasah. Our knapsacks were strapped on, our 
muskets in hand, and the torches blazing in the fire. 
There was more passing and repassing and distinct 
whisperings. Success with these people depends upon 
surprise; our bustling preparation placed a surprise 
entirely out of the question. In fifteen minutes all 
was quiet. Every one instinctively felt that the dan- 
gerous moment had passed ; yet we kept on our guard. 

The next morning we went to the king, who put on 
a most intelligent innocence. We made him a small 
present and immediately left his town. We arrived at 
Bokkasah at four o'clock p.m. 

So far as the matter of carrying arms is concerned, it 
is always better to observe the usage of the natives. 
Arms always form a part of the dress of barbarians. 
The more formidable you can make yourself appear, 
the better for your peace and safety on these highways 
of African travel. To seem harmless does not always 
invoke forbearance; it sometimes suggests plots and 
attempts on life and property. It was that too much 
reliance on the simple-heartedness and good feelings of 
untutored barbarians that got Seymore's right hand 



A JOUENEY TO MUSARDU. 115 

nearly slashed off. It is preferable to try every v/ay 
to indace their good- will, and at the same time to ap- 
pear to be ready to resist their ill-will. Every person 
I met on the road was girded with a heavy iron sword, 
a quiver thrown over the shoulders full of poisoned 
arrows, and a powerful bow. Adopting this example, 
I became a moving arsenal. I walked through the 
whole Boozie country with my bayonet fixed to my 
musket, my revolvers belted so as to be seen and 
feared at the same time, my sword swinging and clang- 
ing at my side; and when, to prove vaj prestige in 
arms, I was asked to fire my revolvers, I would draw 
and blaze away, several barrels going off almost at the 
same time — a serious defect, to be sure, but regarded in a 
very different light by my friends. The bulging full- 
ness of my country coat was attributed to the conceal- 
ment of similar arms, ready to go off at all points. 
This swaggering style was not without effect ; for it was 
said that I had money to give my friends and arms to 
fight my enemies. I had almost forgotten to mention 
that I was informed by Dowilnyah. that five principal 
chiefs were concerned in the assault on Seymore; that 
not one of them was now living ; that their death was 
accounted as the punishment of God for this act of 
wickedness. 

Seymore, relaxing all caution on account of the uni- 
form good treatment lie had received from the natives, 
thought them incapable of a different conduct. He was 
seriously convinced to the contrary. When villainy of 
this kind is to be perpetrated, the greatest secrecy 
among those who are privy to it is preserved. It is 
always the act of a few ; for the feelings of the mass 



116 A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 

seem to be averse to sucli doings. Seymore's affair was 
mentioned in terms of reprobation by all who convers- 
ed with me about the matter. Comma's own son 
strenuously denied to me that his father had any part 
in the matter ; though it is a fact notorious through- 
out the country that his father was a principal actor, 
and that the whole plot was concocted at the town of 
Boe. 

From Bokkasah we came to Fissahbue, on Monday, 
the 8th of February, 1869. On Tuesday, the 9th, we 
arrived at Zolu. King Momoru had not, up to this time, 
been able to effect a reconciliation between the parties. 
Every day they made reprisals on each other. While I 
was there, the Boozies succeeded in capturing several per- 
sons belonging to the Barline people. The wars of these 
people are, however, not attended witk any sanguinary 
results. They consist mostly in surprising a few in- 
dividuals where they can be suddenly come upon. 
Sometimes the roads are waylaid wherever their re- 
spective traders are supposed to pass. These, toge- 
ther with some other petty annoyances, constitute their 
principal mode of warfare. The large walled towns 
are seldom taken. Pitched battles are seldom fought ; 
and even when these people may be said to take the 
open field, most is done by some war chief by way of 
displaying his individual prowess. If they were to 
indulge too much in war, they could never have the 
numerous and large markets with which their country 
is everywhere dotted. 

Tuesday, the 16th of February, 1869, we started from 
Zolu, passed through, the Boozie towns of Yahwuzue, 
Kaulitodah, Wuzugahzeah. On the road we met Beah, 



A JOURNEY TO MUSARDU. 117 

oar Mandingo guide, witli some Bokkasah traders, wbo 
informed that the Americans had carried war against 
Manna. We halted at Powlazue. Wednesday, the 
17th of February, we passed Zolaghee and its large 
creek, running over a bed of red feldspar granite. 
Thousands offish, known among us as "bonies," were 
swimming close to shore, not at all annoyed by the 
people who were bathing in the same water. 

We halted at Moffotah, Thursday, the 18th of Feb- 
ruary, we passed Malang, Ballah, and Dahtazue, and 
halted at a small village. On Friday, the 19th of Febru- 
ary, we reached Barkomah. Saturday, the 20th, leav- 
ing Barkomah, we passed through several villages and 
the town of Nessahbeah. We halted at Sellayo, at six 
o'clock FM. 

Sunday, the 21st, starting from Sellayo, we passed 
Barpellum, where we saw a man who had been wounded 
in four places with a cutlass. He had been beset in 
the road by some unknown persons ; showing, after all, 
the danger and insecurity of the roads, as well as the 
folly of traveling unarmed. At four p.:m., we reached 
Totoquella, the residence of King Momoru, where we 
were received with every demonstration of joy and 
hospitality. Here we spent some time, in order to avail 
ourselves of the opportunity of completing calculations 
of longitude, which, when we were at Boporu, we had 
been unable to do on account of the weather. 

While we were staying at Totoquella, some of the 
king's people killed an elephant ; and instead of beef 
we had elephant for dinner. The part regarded as a 
delicacy, and upon which we dined heartily, was the 
proboscis. He had not yielded his life in a tame, un- 



118 A JOUKNEY TO MUSARDU. 

becoming manner ; his death was attended with the 
flight of his enemies, the smashing up of gun-stocks, 
the stamping and rending of saplings. One musket 
had its barrel literally bent to an angle of ninety de- 
grees. The narrow escape of the hunters themselves 
suggested to me what might have happened, had I at- 
tacked the herd of elephants feeding in the cotton-fields 
of Ballatah. There the country is open and exposed; 
here the friendly woods and jangle offer the hunter im- 
mediate concealment and protection. The elephants 
upon the highlands pertinaciously go in herds, and 
scarcely ever allow themselves to be separated. In- 
trepid elephant-hunters, accustomed to display firmness 
and certainty within six paces of a furious charge, are 
invited to try their prowess with the Ballatah elephants. 



UK 1 



APPENDIX 

TO 

BENJ. ANDERSON'S JOURNEY 



]Sd: u s ^ D u . 

AN EXACT PAC-SIMILE OP A LETTER FROM THE KING OF 

MUSADU TO THE PRESIDENT OP LIBERIA, WRITTEN 

BY A YODNG MANDINGO, AT MUSADU, IN ARABIC, 

IN THE LATTER PART OP 1868. 

PRINTED FROM PHOTOGEAPHIC RELIEF PLATES. 

WITH A TRANSLATION BY THE 

REV. EDWAED W. BLYDEN, 

Professor iu Liberia College. 



f>C 



U 



>^^ 




NEW YORK 
LITHOGRAPHING, ENGRA^aNG & PRINTING CO. 

1870. 



fh 



Translation of an Arabic manuscript writ- 
ten "by a young Mandingo at Misadu, the 
capital of the Western Mandingoes, two hun- 
dred miles north-east of Monrovia, for Mr. 
Benj. Anderson, who visited that town in the 
latter part of 1868. By E. W. Blyden. 

The original is in the possession of H. M. 
Schieffelin, New York. 

Published for distribution, chiefly through 
the Smithsonian Institution. 



TiST the name of Grod, the merciful, the 
^ compassionate. O God ! bless our lord 
Mohammad and save him. This letter is 
from towns unto a town — from our town to 
3^ our town : the name of our town is Masadu"^ 
(accent on the second syllable) that you may 
see what misfortunes have happened to our 
country, and carnage and slavery and hunger 
and poverty, and every injury on account of 
the army. 

The king came forth from his town to our 
town ; his name is Ibmhima Sisi, and his 
mother's name Shiri Sisi, and his father's 
name Mulul Sisi, and the name of his town 
and place of residence is Medina, f His father 



* Thus spelled in the MS. ; sometimes it is written Misadu and 
sometimes Musadu. 

t This is a very extensive Muslim city, surrounded with mud walls, 
about two days' journey east of Misadu. Ibrahima, who presides over 
it, is an enterprising and powerful young Mussulman chief, having a 
large armj'^, consisting of infantry and a cavalry of a thousand horse. 
He is not a very scrupulous Muslim, however, as appears from the MS. 



travelled to your country (^. e. Mesurado). At 
that time there was a king in your country ; 
his name was Amara. He gave to this king 
a wife, and gave to all the people of the 
country plenty of money ; then he returned 
to his town and to his residence Medina (God 
knows all things). God gave him many 
children and a large kingdom, and he fought 
for God, and God killed him and he died 
in war. He left nine male children. The 
name of the eldest was Abdallah. He fought 
against the infidels (Kafirs) for God, and the 
enemy slew him, and he left his brother 
Ibrahima above mentioned. Now Ibrahima 
is king after them. He entered our town on 
a certain Tuesday. On that day he came to 
us with horses and a numerous, overwhelm- 
ing and impudent army, and entered upon an 
agreement with us and said, "O ye people of 
the town of Masadu, I have come with my 
army to fight against all those around you 
who are infidels or pagans." And we said, 
"Very well." And the king said, "I see 
that the pagans have injured you, and I have 
seen my father, Mulul Sisi, and my brother, 
Abdallah, that they fought for God and the 
Muslims, and I said I will humble them in 
battle, and there shall be no honor that a 
child should have his origin from the town of 
his parents." And the people of the town 



said, ''Preserve thou our honor, do not cause 
defilement or injury in our town." He said, 
"Yery well; for this army will not injure 
anything except what I command it." And 
the people said, "Do what pleases thee, for 
this town is thine." And the king said, "I 
am going forth from our town that I may fight 
their towns who troubled you, and fight the 
Kafirs around you. Have you not heard 
the saying of the prophet (God bless him), I 
command that you fight men until they say 
there is no God but God. And they said, 
"Yes, we have heard it, and we know it." 
And they said, "Do what thou hast said." 
And when he perceived that the people of the 
town were pleased with his speech, he went 
with his numerous and arrogant army and 
fought against the people of a toi^m called 
Baghna, and returned to us and entered our 
walled town and our houses. When he per- 
ceived that the believers had cut off" relations 
between themselves and the pagans, and had 
destro^^ed all marriage connections between 
them, and had destroyed friendship, he said 
to the leaders of the slaves (the number of the 
leaders of the slaves was nine), "Fight, do 
not let (the enemy) gather one with another 
until they become numerous. Gather your- 
selves together, and go around them and 
attack them on all sides. Ever^^^ one who 



attempts to escape, capture for us, keep him 
or kill liim. I will sit in tlie capital of the 
country, Masadu, with numerous boys and 
the large army. 

And when he (the king) saw fowls in the 
town (Masadu) he took them, or goats or 
sheep or women, he took them for himself. 
And when he saw cows in the possession of 
any one he said, ' ' Give them to me for the 
isake of religion; I will give you slaves." 
When he said, ' ' companion of the faith ' ' he 
struck them and captured them, and he said, 
"These are the enemies of my father." And 
the people of the town said to him, "Desist, 
there is not in our town any money or food. 
Hunger has taken possession of us, and many 
of our children and slaves have either died or 
lied to our enemies on account of hunger ; 
and all our rich men have become poor, and 
the poor have become numerous. Slaves 
have taken our female children to them- 
selves without compensation." And when 
the king perceived the poverty of the people 
of the town, that they had neither money 
nor food nor power, he returned with his 
army to his town (Medina). 

The chief of the town (Masadu) then said, 
"O ye people of the town, plant, plant." 
And v/hen the people of the town planted, 
they found food and money and calves from 



the pasture, and cows and sheep and goats 
and fowls and an abundance of food. And 
when he (Ibrahima) heard that God had pro- 
duced for the people of the town whom he had 
abandoned, a greater abundance of every 
thing, he returned to us with the army, and 
brojke the agreement between us and our 
neighbors, both Muslims and Pagans. And 
when they desired the journey to their home 
and to their country, they took from us the 
best in our town and our houses, our goods 
and our children and our wives and our 
neighbors and our slaves ; and they said, 
"When we have removed their slaves and 
their children and their wives, they shall 
sweat with us." 

And when we heard this saying from them, 
the chief and king of the town, Fanfi Doreh, 
with his companions said, "0 ye people of 
the town, do ye see the king and his army, 
how all that he has said he does not do it, 
and he does not desire it, except the destruc- 
tion of the town. When he came he said, 
"I will tight for the Muslims," but he has 
had no one to fight against except Muslims, 
and there are no slaves except Muslims, and 
there are no poor except Muslims. The Kafirs 
have escaped from the calamities of the army. 
And say the Kafirs to us, "O ye Muslim 
people, help came to you to assist you against 



10 

us." And tliis was a taunt from the Pagans 
to tlie Muslims. This was the king's weak- 
ness before the Kafirs. And we were in this 
condition for seven years. The king was a 
Muslim and all the people of his army were 
Kafirs except a few. And there was not one 
of the people of the town but feared when it 
was said, '^The army is on the road." Men 
fled from their misfortunes. And all the 
wealthy people in our town had not anything 
left in their hands except one or two or three 
slaves ; all were poor on account of the army, 
and we spurned them (the army) ; and the 
people of the town lost many things, and 
none but God can number them ; and our 
king, whose name is Fanfi Doreh, lost sixty 
slaves. 

On a certain day we saw the people of the 
army, and they entered a town below us 
toward the west, and the name of the town 
was Yusumudu. They attacked it until they 
spoiled the houses and broke down the walls 
and made the farms to sufier ; and they 
wasted another town below us on the west ; 
the name of this town is Khulila. And when 
they returned to their town, some came to our 
town ( Jilila), and they killed in it one hundred 
and eighty sheep and goats, and the people 
of that town were Muslims. For this reason 
the people of our town refused their friend- 



11 

sMp, reproached tliem, and did not say 
^' Peace" to them. We thought that they 
were helpers of the religion of Mohammad, 
but they were not helpers of Islam, but they 
destroyed the religion of Islam. They were 
disobedient to God and followed Satan ; and 
therefore I take refuge in Grod^ from their 
punishment and their wickedness. May Gfod 
preserve us from them and from the evil of 
many visits from them. They reviled the holy 
priest of the town, and assaulted him, taking 
his garment from his loins and even his cap, 
from his head, and they outraged him and 
dragged him over the ground, and they 
greatly damaged him with their feet ; his 
name is Salihu Shereef. They laid waste and 
destroyed all the treasures of the country. 
And no one knows the number of their evil 
deeds, and how to describe them, but God. 
When they entered the town they made the 
greater portion of the inhabitants of the town 
poor and destitute and vile, even the learned 
men became poor. If it had been known to 
us what they would do to us before it took 
place, we should certainly have driven them 
away, and they would not have entered. 
Says Hariri in the Makamot, "We said they 
are weak and we are weak ; they are men 



*Kiiranic form for introdncinfr deprecatory invocations.— Trans. 



12 

and we are men " ^ They will 

not ever enter into our town. Verily God is 
mighty, and verily there is a refuge in God, 
and every man should seek to serve God in 
every thing. 

And, during this state of things, we learned 
on a certain day that there was a messenger 
on the path from Durukorof to us, from a 
place on the west and its environs, and we 
said, ''Praise he to God for that. This is our 
wish and our ardent desire. The army took 
from our town seven men, and selected the 
best of them, and some of their slaves, fifty 
belonging to some and under fifty belonging 
to others. Seven children of our. town and 
the Iman saved themselves by fiight. We 
said to the messenger, Ben Anderson, say to 
the king who sent thee to us as follov/s : "We 
have seen thy messenger. Our town is not 
in its former condition. The king (Ibrahima) 
has troubled us. The army entered into our 
town and threw us into confusion. Assist us 
with iron and sword, and with everything. 
Thou knowest that he has been a help. Thou 
lovest us and we love thee, and our refuge 
is in God and in thee, and in thy assistance 
and thy companionship. Give us whatever 
is in thy kingdom. Thy messenger has seen 



* MS. not intelligible here. + Monrovia. 



13 

US in affliction on account of the war wliich 
lias come to ns. O my friend, wlien thou 
desirest to travel to us do not doubt or be 
troubled on account of our affairs. Come 
without doubt on account of the love between 
us and thee. 

"There is Mohammad, called in our lan- 
guage, ' Sabsu,' ^' when thy messenger reaches 
to him he reaches to us, and when our mes- 
senger reaches to him he reaches to thee ; and 
likewise presents from thee to me may come 
through Mohammad, and presents from me- 
to thee by the same means. 

"Oh, Mohammad Sabsu,t I visit thee, but 
thou dost not visit me, for my two children 
are with thee (in thy hand), viz., Nafaribu 
Mohammad and Maliki, thou keepest them 
for me. 

Oh, Christians and Jews,:}: when ye desire 
to send to us, send to Mohammad Sabsu, and 
when your messages reach him, his servant 
Kuhi will forward them, for he loves us ; and 
all that you desire from our town you will 
tind, if it please God, according to your letter. 
I am king of the army in our town, the pro- 



* MomoriT, Sau King of Boporo. 

t The King ol Masadu here addresses the King of Boporo, as Mr. 
Anderson had to pass through his town going and coming. 

X The Mandingoes regard the Liherians as composed of Christians 
and Jews. 



14 

tector of this large town. This town is "the 
mother of the country — the name is Masadn. 
Success is from God, if it please God. There 
is no strength or power but in God, the 
exalted, the mighty. The word is finished 
which I wished in this letter, and I pray for 
thee, friend, that God may keep thee from 
the army and all its mischiefs. Peace upon 
Mohammad and the family of Mohammad. 

The name of the writer of this book is Mo- 
hammad Barta. I have no learning — I seek 
learning. I am but a boy, but I think that 
there are learned men among us. The name 
of his father is Ibrahima, and of his mother 
Ayesha. Success is from God. 




APPENDIX 



BENJ. ANDERSON'S JOURNEY 



]sj:xjs^du. 



AK EXACT FAC-SIMILE OF A LETTER FROM THE KING OF 
MUSADTJ TO THE PRESIDENT OF LIBERIA, WRITTEN 
BY A YOUNG MANDINGO, AT MUSADU, IN ARABIC, 
IN THE LATTER PART OF 



PRINTED FROM PHOTOGRAPHIC RELIEF PLATES. 

WITH A TRANSLATION BT THE 

REV. EDWARD W. BLYDEN, 

Professor in Liberia College. 



NEW YORK 

LITHOGRAPHING, ENGRAVING & PRINTING CO. 

1870. 



9.^ 



Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process 
Neutralizing agent; Magnesium Oxide 
Treatment Date: June 2003 

PreservatioiiTechnologies 

AWOR-.BAO.B.N^PAP|«PReSHRVAT.O. 

Cranberry Township. PA 16066 



